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Old 04-08-2010, 09:23 AM   #81
Fun Pod
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It's amazing the difference just that one technique makes, let alone in conjunction with any others that may follow ...
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:35 PM   #82
Thunderbird2
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Dear teacher:

Is there any difference to go with or without oil paint?

Thanks
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:59 PM   #83
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Jargon, The burnt umber & black enamel, do you use this same combination on all your weathering or is it specific to the Jeep? I am detailing some Eagle walkways at the moment, which are white & will use your technique to weather them.
Thankyou.
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Old 04-08-2010, 04:53 PM   #84
jargonking
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You don't have to use oil paint, I've had equally good results using matt black mixed with a chocolate brown enamel...I think it's Humbrol 98.
Humbrol used to do a colour in the old Authentics range called Track Colour which was great for making washes but it was never replaced when the Authentics were absorbed into the main range.

I use this mix on all my models that are of terrestrial origin....with something like the Eagle I might be tempted to just use a black wash.
Hang fire for another few days and see the next steps of the process first.....if I can dig out an old piece of kit, I'll spray it white and do a demo on that too.
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Old 04-08-2010, 09:39 PM   #85
uncle bill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healvis View Post
Jargon, The burnt umber & black enamel, do you use this same combination on all your weathering or is it specific to the Jeep? I am detailing some Eagle walkways at the moment, which are white & will use your technique to weather them.
Thankyou.
You can substitute artists water colours with a dash of dish soap, after the wash has dried take a moist cloth and wipe the excess off, then if you don't like the result it can be washed off and you can start again. Being water colour there is no chance of any unwanted reaction with the base coats.
I would advise not using a black wash on a white model, it is just too stark. Use raw umber or mid to pale gray.
Bill
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:05 PM   #86
jargonking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle bill View Post
You can substitute artists water colours with a dash of dish soap, after the wash has dried take a moist cloth and wipe the excess off, then if you don't like the result it can be washed off and you can start again. Being water colour there is no chance of any unwanted reaction with the base coats.
I would advise not using a black wash on a white model, it is just too stark. Use raw umber or mid to pale gray.
Bill
I've experimented with water-based washes and found that they don't give the same level of patina and ageing to large flat areas of colour.
As to the black wash on a white model, the wash is just the first element in the process and is toned down by subsequent steps, I'd never advocate the use of washes alone.
I appreciate that it's really a case of each to his own...what I'm
demonstrating here is my approach...other weathering methods are available
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Old 05-08-2010, 08:46 PM   #87
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The next step is a fairly heavy drybrush using an appropriate colour, in this case Humbrol 169 Yellow Facings.
It's important to ensure that the tin is thoroughly mixed by stirring it for several minutes...the thicker the paint is, the better for drybrushing.



I use several brushes for this but all of them look pretty beat up as the process is hard on the brush so don't use your best brush for this...I tend to retire some of my older ones to drybrushing duty.

The process of drybrushing involves dipping your brush into the tin or jar (usually a lighter shade than the basecoat) then removing most of the paint on a tissue or paper towel until there is only a trace left on the brush.



The brush is then passed back and forth across the model where the paint will catch on the surface and highlight it.

Here's the hood of the jeep prior to drybrushing...



...and here it is after...



The surface begins to develop a depth of colour which will gradually take on a more scale appearance which will look less toy-like.

Next up will be some detail painting and a second wash....
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Old 05-08-2010, 09:48 PM   #88
TerraForm1
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Hi Jargonking:
Regarding your dry brush technique:
What kind of motion/ pressure do you use when applying the paint? For example: A back and forth stroke or a dabbing motion or swirling the bristles around... Just curious. Excellent technique by the way and please accept my overwhelming thanks for sharing...
T'Form1
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Old 05-08-2010, 11:02 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerraForm1 View Post
Hi Jargonking:
Regarding your dry brush technique:
What kind of motion/ pressure do you use when applying the paint? For example: A back and forth stroke or a dabbing motion or swirling the bristles around... Just curious. Excellent technique by the way and please accept my overwhelming thanks for sharing...
T'Form1
Mainly back and forth although in tight areas like the jeeps footwells I tend to swirl the brush around...
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:58 AM   #90
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jargonking,

Definately learning a lot from this.

I am guessing you are going over the whole model with the drybrushing....or are we only talking specific areas...sorry if this is a dumb question.
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:19 PM   #91
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Correct...I drybrush the entire model including the underside. I don't intend to do anything else to the underside as the vehicle will be fixed to the base so won't be visible.
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:21 PM   #92
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Here's a quick detour as I start on the base for the diorama. I'm starting this before the sub is sealed up to ensure that I can incorporate the electrical feeds into the base.

First up is a cryptic photo...



They're a couple of old document trays that I rescued from the office in work and are just what I've been looking for....I'll carry on with the weathering tutorial here but if you want to see what becomes of the trays then check it out here...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showth...38#post3437338
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:31 AM   #93
Alpha's last child
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Cant wait to learn more about your dry brush technique...
Absolutely inspirational!!!

-ALC
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Old 23-10-2011, 06:23 PM   #94
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again outstanding detail and work... and clever
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Old 23-10-2011, 06:28 PM   #95
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its the scale of it and create use of materials that impresses me.
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Old 23-10-2011, 06:34 PM   #96
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lt's the scale of it and creative use of materials that impresses me, wow!. Heaven weathering and attention to detail. more its so creative
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Old 24-10-2011, 02:06 PM   #97
Conrad Turner
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WoW!

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread before, this is some AMAZING work! I am looking ofrward to the next update.

JargonKing, can you please just clarify something. How much research did you do for this, it must have been quite a lot. There is something that perplexes me though.

On the tracks of your crane, why did you put the toothed wheels at the front?

I have no experience with military modelling, and can only ask the question from a logic perspective, but it seems to me that if the toothed wheels are at the front, then they are pulling the track over the top, and this could therefore cause slack between them and the first of the road wheels. The track sections that then go over the top, back to the big smooth wheel you have at the back of the crane, should therefore be taut.

I thought that most tanks and tracked vehicles have the toothed drive wheels at the back, pulling the track backwards on the bottom - and therefore the vehicle forwards - and allowing some slack at the top as the track returns to the front.

I don't understand how a toothed drive wheel at the front produces slack at the top unless the vehicle is designed to be driven in reverse, and indeed has just done so.

I just hope that JargonKing can be persuaded to return to this thread, and finish giving us a brilliant tutorial on weathering and scratchbuilding.
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