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Old 26-04-2012, 01:05 PM   #21
fab1
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Ok thanks for that, now to clarify moulding of the actual cone and not the handle. Is moulding medium flexible enough to coat the cone from bottom of cone up to top, let it set and then pull out original or would I have to make the mould of the cone in two sections. ??
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Old 26-04-2012, 02:14 PM   #22
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I would go with one part mould per part of model.

It look like you will need to fit the handle/trigger into the gun body first

The barrel could be buried into some plastercine (imagine the Mole here) then drop a tube around it, make sure you leave at least 10 mm airspace around the part so the rubber that fills the space will be thick enough to be self supporting.

When the gun body mould is cured remove and inspect, perhaps even make a test casting to check you have the details you need then press the handle/body into the plastercine and repeat the process, try to leave a small overlap of exposed part to allow a little sanding to a perfect fit.

If I remember correctly there is a bead detail between the base of the barrel and the end of the gun body, capture that in both mouldings and sand each casting to form one half of the bead, in your image there seems to be a black line make that your join line.

As this is a round object I would not split it length wise unless I really had to, two part mould never really register correctly unless you are very skilled at making them. and try to remove a flash of resin amongst those fins won't make you popular either. There are spare clips for this gun in the belt of the Thunderbirds dress uniform, they remove the front of the gun to use them, split it like that for moulding.

Here is an example of a registered mould made by the very talented Bob Smith it's the stingray rotor mould for his old RA Stingray which I bought from him. The test part is complete and hollow, this casting is made is a non clear resin but shows the form well.



Note the dimples scattered in a random fashion to ensure the bottom and top of the mould will fit together in EXACTLY the same spot every time. the wall thickness is enough so it stands and holds it own weight without deforming, I will weight it down a little to prevent leaks when casting.

The rubber is soft enough to stretch gently and allow the shape to be withdrawn when cured but firm enough to hold it's shape standing on a table top.
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Old 26-04-2012, 03:52 PM   #23
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I've never had any luck with paper masking tape,it eeither bleeds or rips the paint off the model by being too sticky....I wonder if this is a matter of brand?

Have had fairly good luck with vynil electrical tape, ditto with automotive fine line tape. I wonder if the glass laying is the trick for the masking tape, and if so why?

It's very frustrating to have your masking tape pull the paint off the model, the jagged holes have to be filled as well as requiring a repaint.....
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Old 26-04-2012, 05:28 PM   #24
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Hi Graham,i,d mould the cone in one piece,the rubber is flexible enough to pull the master and casts from,suggest you lightly dust the mould with talc before each use,it will help to pull the resin in to the edges where you would have a chance of airbubbles.
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Old 27-04-2012, 07:18 AM   #25
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Here you go Bernie
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Old 27-04-2012, 11:16 AM   #26
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Cheers Daz.

Had I had the money, that would have been mine,

If anyone has an Airfix Stingray they would like to sell or swop let me know please.
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Old 27-04-2012, 11:24 AM   #27
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thanks very much, help appreciated. Lovely Stingray...in my opinion the best series.
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Old 27-04-2012, 03:00 PM   #28
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Oh that Airfix Stingray is a thing of beauty... What we need is a nice (easily bribed) person within Airfix who would pay for to laser-scan an old kit and have computers make new moulds from them.
Hey it worked for Polar Lights with dead Aurora models
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Old 27-04-2012, 03:57 PM   #29
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I would go with Dazzos sugestion (if you dont go the vinal mask route) of Tamia 6mm tape then tape it to a flat (glass works good) surface and use a metal rule to cut ultra fine strips. After using the strips you then build up gradualy larger pcs to cover the area. Right before paint use a hard smooth edge of something to make sure it is all flattened out (no folds sticking up) and paint. Dont wait to long before you CAREFULLY remove the tape.
James
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Old 28-04-2012, 12:08 AM   #30
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Try asking for low-tack masking tape at a Car parts place. Where you can buy aerosols and that.
When I sprayed cars (back in the distant past) we used electrical tape (cut down the middle) as it bent easy enough and gave clean lines.
Just remember to remove tape at a 90 degree angle to your panel to prevent peeling of the paint and keep clean lines.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/49602360@N00/
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Old 28-04-2012, 10:26 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TV21Dalek View Post
Oh that Airfix Stingray is a thing of beauty... What we need is a nice (easily bribed) person within Airfix who would pay for to laser-scan an old kit and have computers make new moulds from them.
Hey it worked for Polar Lights with dead Aurora models
Working on it.....

For more information and to have your mind totally blown away take a look here:

http://www.eagletransporter.com/foru...162#post332162
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