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Old 12-06-2013, 10:27 PM   #21
jeb1138
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Great photos of a fantastic build!
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Old 13-06-2013, 06:29 PM   #22
Harlock
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Thanks jeb1138

----


It was then time for her little feet.
The small discs (her toes) are also secured with small rod reinforcements.














A dry test, without the legs. It is already very nice.










The main thruster was bending seriously, so I completed the basic installation as follows:
- Addition of a metal tube securing the nozzle on the engine cylinder, and aligning them,
- Due to drill bit in millimeters instead of inches, I had to also add a wedge (test with a rod and made with putty) to secure the rod to the main body.


















The hinges were glued following the useful method pointed by Alex in the instructions : using a rod as a guide






New dry test





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Old 14-06-2013, 08:52 PM   #23
Harlock
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Now, the legs.

This is by far the most complicated stage of this kit. They consist of several rods to bend in all directions, metal pipes to cut and fit, and resin parts to put on.

The Swift is a long legged ship. The legs could not be made of resin (it would have been too fragile), and the result would have been, I think, random with cast metal.
In short, this is the right solution that was chosen, but it is a real challenge to ride...

Construction of a wooden stand to hold the central body at the proper height.








I started by drilling holes in the modules to insert the rods (being careful to diameter because it changes depending on their location).

Even having converted all dimensions and diameters of rods and tubes in the instructions, I did not always find the right diameter in those provided. Either my conversion was lousy (but in this case, all my conversion would be false, which is not the case), or there are errors in the docs (bad copy/paste ?).


Well, I really had to start the legs this time, I could no longer postponed this uneasy stage. So after a clever set of pliers, drill, of sore fingers and swearwords, re-gluing of part coming apart (under a new rain of swearswords) ...I ended in something that suits me.















Phew!


The hardest stage was done. It remained to add their struts brace, made of brass rods and plastic tubes. In this kit, they are only details, as the legs are clearly enough string to support the weight of the kit, without any reinforcement.

So I only prepared these parts and installed them after painting. In order to install the legs (which will therefore be also set after painting) I need to play with, and I'm afraid that these struts do not bear these twists.

Beforehand, I take care of the VTOL engines to avoid a conflict with these struts, as they are really near to each others. As they are attached to the side modules, the angle of the rods needed care when drilling holes, and especially in the engine, as they are all different, and their positioning are different from front and back ones.

Here, they are still not properly adjusted:










For the length of the struts, it is better to directly measure the length on the dry build legs rather than stay on the instruction measures, as how the legs are installed directly affects these measures. And here, an error of 2 mm does not forgive.







The detail of the shock absorbers have to be done with the provided gray tape, but I was not able to get my hand on them again... and that was good because I replaced it by masking tapes (Tamyia, Micron) I had and of the appropriate width, thus saving me on cutting.



Final stages of the building :
- The engine module is made of parts related to its central cylinder. There are lugs for alignment. Again, drill and small brass rods reinforce the assembly.
- The pipes connecting the secondary engines to the main body gave me a hard time because I had misjudged their locations and angles.
- Holes in the feet to fit the end of the legs. They will also be glued after painting.
- Preparation of small verniers on the head.
Again, setting up small rods to strengthen the assembly.

(Sorry, no photos here)

That 's all for now on the assembly, it met a whole skygrapper of kits waiting for paints ... but with a priority pass
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Old 15-06-2013, 11:15 AM   #24
JayCub
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Very enjoyable build log, fantastic photography and great insight, also worth mentioning the links to Oliver's blog.

maybe this is a future build only time and the girlfriend will tell
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Old 16-06-2013, 10:06 AM   #25
Harlock
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Thanks a lot JayCub.

Good luck in convicing your grilfriend.

---

A first coat of primer revealed rows of micro bubbles on the side modules, quickly worked with filler.



White paint

It is not a pure white, but slightly off-white.
So I mixed Tamyia white with sky gray (Tamiya Xf19). Over a white background you can easily see the difference. Over another more colorful or black background, the eye and the camera accommodates it as a white (which is the goal).




















The white panels were masked



Orange and red paneling

Then came the difficulty of finding the right red color ... Which is not red at all in fact on the studio model ! It is frankly orange, with a heavily worked panneling made of different levels of orange and red orange.

So I went on basic orange (Tamiya X6).



The paneling is done with red too, but staying subtle and playing with the flow of the airbrush to softly darken the orange base color. A little like a postshading, I used a rather heavily thinned paint (at least 80/20 alcool/paint), and a very low pressure .3/.4 bars (5 psi I think, very near the loose of pressure), and the airbrush in double action (to be very soft in the paint flowrate).
This way, painting a panel need several passages to really paint it.
So I played with this to add more or less red paint over the orange, so I get lot's of level of tons of color, from orange to red-orange to near full red pannels.

With this technique, near no paint is going out of the tiny flow, so you just need to mask the panel itself, not the whole model.
During painting stage, I had photos of the studio panels on an ipad on hand. So each panel is quickly masked (four large tamiya tape, or only one, if I want the separation line).

Some panels are then done with a mixture of light orange and light pink.










IMG_1770
























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Old 17-06-2013, 10:18 PM   #26
Harlock
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Black panels are painted, after prior masking and with the help of decals for the control module.






Then comes a light paneling on the "white" and "orange" areas with different shades of gray (using only one gray, Neutral Grey XF53, in playing with the airbrush). Then some black streaks near gauges and nozzles.




















9






































As I forgot to hide the aluminum area on the landing gear, they were painted white. Rather than trying to scrape the paint for a unsure result, I airbrushed them with Alclad Chrome.




The tiny resin nozzles are painted with a base of gloss mat, then with Alclad : Jet Exhaust base color, followed by Steel and Chrome.












The end and inside of the turned aluminum thrusters received also Alclad Jet Exhaust, and mat black.







I then applied a black wash.
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Old 21-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #27
EddieL
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Breathtaking stuff.

You are really doing the Swift justice.

Cheers
Eddie
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Old 25-06-2013, 08:36 PM   #28
Harlock
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Thank you very much for your nice coment, Eddie


I completely forget the swift lately, here is the next step

------------

I applied a black wash on the parts (preceded by a coat of gloss /Klir).The wash is very light here because the goal is not to dirty the ship, but just to highlight the details.

(sorry, no photos)

There are a bunch of decals. They all need to be cut from the board and are quite fragile, and many will lose a little of color in the operation.
Cutting small black circles is made with a punch ... with more or less success.


















IMG_1816










I damaged one of the large striped decal strips that circling the dorsal tanks. So I had to redone the damaged part with paint.
To hide the difference, I made a small black weathering with the airbrush to simulate a dirt panel.







It remained to apply a coat of varnish before final assembly.

I tested the Microscale Micro Satin (thinned with water), and as I did not see any differences after drying, I went to the Micro Flat ...not better!
So I get back to Prince August Air mat, strongly mixed with Tamiya thinner (with proportions around 10/90) and especially not with alcohol, to prevent white marks.
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Old 27-06-2013, 08:32 PM   #29
Harlock
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As the rest of this assembly, final assembly brought a lot of complications.
- at first, the legs: curiously, they no longer have the same tilt as initially! So disassembly, corrections with pliers and reassembly was needed.






Several small parts were broken, bent and/or broken during these manipulations.
I caught up as better as I could, then repainted to hide the misery. Fortunately, it is in a rather hidden area.






- Same thing for the pipes of the small reactors.



-I will not detail everything, but I had to get out the airbrush few more times thereafter to correct 2/3 assembly goofing... Under another flow of well-chosen swearwords!

Here it is before the installation of the dorsal tanks :













































































-----------------

The method to hold the dorsal tanks support plates did not work, so I get back to a more conventional but reliable method: screw!












Catching up some damage.

Before :






After :





Then complete the tiny pipes of the VTOL and side modules






I'm quite proud of the final result
































Here it is, exhibited at Geekopolis convention - Paris / May 2013.

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Old 28-06-2013, 01:41 AM   #30
Alex Dumas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlock View Post
I'm quite proud of the final result
And you should be Olivier. This is just an amazing build. The best I have seen so far of this kit...

Thanks for sharing all the info as I hope will be seeing more fans try out building their kit. I think patience and careful planning are the key here
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Old 28-06-2013, 10:53 AM   #31
NeoGoglu
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Encore une fois : BRAVO !
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Old 28-06-2013, 01:15 PM   #32
JayCub
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Can't say enough good things about you sharing your build here Oliver, but bravo and thank you for the many photographs and the sharing of the obstacles you over came, this should be a sticky as it is very comprehensive, it's great to come along sit back and just browse
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Old 28-06-2013, 02:02 PM   #33
Jeff2
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Very nice final result.
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