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Old 17-11-2017, 10:19 AM   #41
umotogp
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Beautiful model umotogp!
Thanks matey :-)
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Old 26-11-2017, 10:49 AM   #42
badsimmonds
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Earlier this year after completing the build of my Stingray Mk 2 I had to do some house decorating again. I had said I wouldn't paint stingray after the problems I had with Mk 1 but during the decorating I did some experiments with paint and masking and finally decided I would paint it after all.
I then looked over every inch of the model and marked where there was any damage or sand paper marks etc. I prefer doing this in full sun as it shows up defects very well.
So once again it was down to filling and sanding and spraying to get as smooth a surface as possible. As I only spent a few minutes a day on this it took some time to complete.
The first colour I sprayed was the yellow, I used Ford Signal yellow from Halfords. After wiping the surface with a tack rag I bit the bullet and started. It went on ok so after leaving it a few minutes I brought it inside and left it for a few days before the next stage.
Since I've started I really have to finish it now.
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Old 26-11-2017, 08:26 PM   #43
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So pleased to see you finally biting the bullet and finishing this beautiful model with a full paint scheme. Can I offer you a word of advice that I can't emphasise enough....make sure each colour is absolutely dry before masking for the next colour, even if you need to leave it for a few extra days, it will be worth it. By doing that you will be able to really press the masking tape down, even gong over the edges with your finger nail to stop paint bleeding under the tape. Keep up the great work, we are all holding our breath as we follow your excellent posts.
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Old 27-11-2017, 06:20 PM   #44
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Hi Andernut
The model is nearly finished painting wise, I decided not to post any details until I was sure it was going to work.
As you advised I did leave at least a week in between each colour and things went quite well. The reason for the problems in the Mk1 was the silver I used, I should never have sprayed other colours over it as they didn't adhere very well. The silver was Plasticote silver and its a good silver if you spray it on last but definitely not first.
I'll be posting further updates shortly, glad you like the model.
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Old 27-11-2017, 08:56 PM   #45
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Great to hear you have had success and I along with many others are looking forward to seeing pics of your progress to completion.
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Old 27-11-2017, 11:06 PM   #46
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Looking good mate, always the best part putting the colour on as it pops to life, looking forward to seeing her finished :-)
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Old 28-11-2017, 02:54 PM   #47
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Default Building up the suspense.....

Hi M, by the sounds of it you're making real progress so, as with all of your other followers, I'm sitting here with baited breath and a real air of anticipation. Good luck!!!!

Kindest regards

Patrick
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Old 03-12-2017, 04:10 PM   #48
badsimmonds
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After leaving the model for over a week it was time for the next colour. I cleaned and masked off the model using Tamiya tape then normal masking tape to keep the bin liner in place. The worst part of masking this model is the nose which has very tight curves and if anything goes wrong its very noticeable being at the front.
I first used a darker blue which for some reason I didn't like at all so after waiting another week I masked everything again and sprayed Halfords Ford Olympic Blue which was much lighter. Some people have different views on colours for this model but I'm happy with my choice.
I then decided to spray the cabin, fortunately at this stage no masking was required. I used Halfords Peugeot Royal blue which was the same colour I had sprayed the Aqua sprites way back.
That's it for now, its rather drawn out as I have to wait for the paint to dry, I always bring the model indoors as soon as I can.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:42 PM   #49
tryptych
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Whilst I understand many reasons, not least of which is expense, I am surprised more modellers do not invest in a compressor and spray gun. The spray atomiser produces a far finer mist, and consequently better finish than some cheap plastic spray can nozzle, along with a constantly regulated air pressure, AND you can mix your own paints.

That said, your model looks gorgeous.

One other question that has been bugging me for probably fifty years now, is/was the Stingray propeller thingy at the back an acrylic water tap handle?
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:01 PM   #50
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Whilst I understand many reasons, not least of which is expense, I am surprised more modellers do not invest in a compressor and spray gun. The spray atomiser produces a far finer mist, and consequently better finish than some cheap plastic spray can nozzle, along with a constantly regulated air pressure, AND you can mix your own paints.

That said, your model looks gorgeous.

One other question that has been bugging me for probably fifty years now, is/was the Stingray propeller thingy at the back an acrylic water tap handle?
I bought a compressor and spray gun when I started my Thunderbird 2 studio model and thought exactly that, only to find it was a complete pain in the behind, keept glogging and could never get it to work properly, but to be fair it wasn't the most expensive, so I decided to get a better airbrush, and still had the same issues, so used spray cans again.
As for the technically named ratemaster your referring to on Stingray's rear, the answer is no its not an acrylic tap top, its a bit more refined than that, and the model props used in the show ranged from 10" to 4' in size.
2756024946.jpg

Stingray-2.jpg

Stingray002b.jpg
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:40 PM   #51
tryptych
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Yes, they are a bit of a dark art to get to work. A lot of it is about the balance of air pressure and paint thickness. Spray paint is far runnier than one might expect, so you need plenty of passes to build up the colour. Airbrushes are really just for the detail work and they are even more temperamental and one has to be fastidiously clean with them or they just bung up. I used to do a lot of airbrush art, but that was with acrylics. I tried using the enamel type stuff for models once or twice using the Humbrol paints, but again, you have to thin it right down.

The key trick with spraying is to start moving before you hit the paint and before you reach the model, so you get an even coat.

Are those pics of the original model? Mike Trim only came on board for Thunderbirds, I seem to remember. Was the original studio model that big?
The "ratemaster" looks to be hollow acrylic/Perspex.

I still think it looks like a tap top though.
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Old 06-12-2017, 11:47 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by tryptych View Post
Yes, they are a bit of a dark art to get to work. A lot of it is about the balance of air pressure and paint thickness. Spray paint is far runnier than one might expect, so you need plenty of passes to build up the colour. Airbrushes are really just for the detail work and they are even more temperamental and one has to be fastidiously clean with them or they just bung up. I used to do a lot of airbrush art, but that was with acrylics. I tried using the enamel type stuff for models once or twice using the Humbrol paints, but again, you have to thin it right down.

The key trick with spraying is to start moving before you hit the paint and before you reach the model, so you get an even coat.

Are those pics of the original model? Mike Trim only came on board for Thunderbirds, I seem to remember. Was the original studio model that big?
The "ratemaster" looks to be hollow acrylic/Perspex.

I still think it looks like a tap top though.
I get where your coming from on the tap bit, not sure if the model Gerry's holding is an original, my guess not but they would of had one that size, and definitely a large one, and judging by the guy holding it, it's period, as for the spray, your right about cleaning and the approach to laying down the paint
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Old 06-12-2017, 11:53 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tryptych View Post
Yes, they are a bit of a dark art to get to work. A lot of it is about the balance of air pressure and paint thickness. Spray paint is far runnier than one might expect, so you need plenty of passes to build up the colour. Airbrushes are really just for the detail work and they are even more temperamental and one has to be fastidiously clean with them or they just bung up. I used to do a lot of airbrush art, but that was with acrylics. I tried using the enamel type stuff for models once or twice using the Humbrol paints, but again, you have to thin it right down.

The key trick with spraying is to start moving before you hit the paint and before you reach the model, so you get an even coat.

Are those pics of the original model? Mike Trim only came on board for Thunderbirds, I seem to remember. Was the original studio model that big?
The "ratemaster" looks to be hollow acrylic/Perspex.

I still think it looks like a tap top though.
Yes the ratemaster is clear resin and perspex/acrylic parets glued on, this is my attempt 21 years ago, at 40" in length
turbin.jpg

Dsc08073.jpg

on the lake at sea.jpg

turbin rear fitted.jpg
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Old 07-12-2017, 09:19 PM   #54
tryptych
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Yours looks solid.
I think the original was too. The photos you showed I think are a replica.
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Old 07-12-2017, 09:52 PM   #55
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Yours looks solid.
I think the original was too. The photos you showed I think are a replica.
The pic of the guy in the white shirt and tie is the Original made by Mastermodels who built many of the Craft for Thunderbirds and other series, they supplied them in this new condition and the Studio would apply the Lettering and then "Dirty them down"
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:23 PM   #56
badsimmonds
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Its time to paint the silver areas, last time I used a paint which has its good points but it should never be put on before any other colour.
Anyway back to masking using a mixture of Tamiya tape, low tack tape and bin liners.
After wiping the surface with a tack cloth I started the spray. This time I used Halfords Ford Strato Silver which went on with no problems.
After leaving it to dry I brought it into the house where it will stay for a week before the next colour.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:42 PM   #57
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Looking sexy!
That must have been a nightmare to mask, not only getting the compound curves, but keeping it all symmetrical. Marvelous job.

What is this Tamiya tape?

I assume the last time you did this the enamel paints didn't want to stick to the metallics?
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Old 09-12-2017, 03:05 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by nialle46 View Post
The pic of the guy in the white shirt and tie is the Original made by Mastermodels who built many of the Craft for Thunderbirds and other series, they supplied them in this new condition and the Studio would apply the Lettering and then "Dirty them down"
Interesting, thanks for that info matey, so that's a large model of about 4' I assume
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Old 10-12-2017, 02:15 PM   #59
badsimmonds
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Tamiya tape is masking tape for modellers which comes in various widths.
On stingray I used tape 10mm and 2mm wide depending on the curves. I usually lay this tape down and then using ordinary low tack masking tape to keep the bin liners in place.

My stingray is complete but I decided not to post anything until I knew everything went ok but I hope to post finished photos before Christmas.
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Old 11-12-2017, 01:07 PM   #60
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Thanks for the info.
Looking forward to seeing the final shots.
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