Dulling down Ford Diamond White

[w8cmp]

So OK guys - those of you who have built large scale Eagle replicas (or indeed restored the original models).

Having sprayed my 23" Eagle with Ford Diamond White I now have a beautiful gloss finish to play with.

Now this is great for decals and the like, but is a little unrealistic for the finished model. I need to add panel detailing and I'll use my pics of the original Eagle 1 at last year's convention to get an approximation of the patterns. Next will be decals on to the still gloss finish...

But my question is what you would normally use to finish the model as a final coat to dull it down a little and protect the paint / decals (if anything).

DX and Mark42 - any recommendations ??? I was thinking Microscale's matt varnish as previously suggested, but was interested in what you guys have used on your large scale models.

Cheers

Chris

[akoenig]

I'd recommend you several gloss coats of a very good protective material (Future / Krystal Klear). It will hurt your eyes and your brain, but then is the time to apply a coat of Matt Varnish. I only can recommend one: VALLEJO MATT ACRYLIC VARNISH, the best so far for me (and I've tried zillions of them). It's sold in spray cans.

Try to apply the least possible amount of matt coat (whichever you decide to use), as it alters the colors. This is the purpose of applying protective coats of gloss, and a final one of matt, instead of using matt for all the work.

[Mark42]

I've just used Humbrol Matt varnish spray on my Treehawk and Mark IX Hawks and it seems to be OK. Prior to this I've never used it, instead I just used normal Gloss spray paints - but held the can slightly further away and dusted on the final thin coat to get a satin finish. This technique does result in a slightly textured,non-smooth, surface finish which certainly doesn't suit small models. Normally it works fine and I like it on my big models but sometimes you can get a dud can of paint which results in a poorer finish, there are some parts of my Eagle that I'm not too happy with.

[saturnapollo]

Unfortunately you will probably find that the Humbrol Matt spray will yellow with time (and not that long either).

AKoenig's suggestion of Vellejo's matt is best as acrylic based varnishes shouldn't yellow at all.

Keith

[DX-SFX]

Microscale's Micro Flat is very good and doesn't yellow. It can go a bit milky if applied too thickly though and I use it exclusively with an airbrush. Humbrol's Matt spray changed it's formula recently and appears to be a different product to the old one. Some cans now come with a warning about overspraying existing paint so presumably the spirit base they use now is much stronger than before.

[w8cmp]

Cheers guys - on Chris's previous recommendation I used Microscale's Micro flat recently on my Warp Hawk model and it seems to have done the job.

I think I'll give it a go on the PE 23" Eagle after I've decalled it etc.

Chris

[JJL567]

I've been using the new formula Humbrol matt varnish spray for a while now and everything looks akay so far.
I prime most components with Halfords Plastic Primer with a final dusting of Ford Diamond White. This leaves a nice decal ready gloss surface should the component in question need any applying. (I use the Microscale super set/sol system for decal application)
Finally I dust over with the Humbrol Matt straight from the can.
For smaller components, or just touching up the odd gloss area, I mix a little Hannants Matt varnish in my airbrush cup which goes on a treat.
Sealing decals once they are completely dry with the desired varnish finish, should be done as soon as possible as it protects them.
Regarding weathering, dirtying down, and the addition of fine Bic pen panel line work, I have found that doing this LAST on a matt surface works better.

[akoenig]

The problem with the Matt Varnish, specially the enamel based ones, as Humbrol, is that they are very, very temperamental and unpredictables. Everything affects them: Ambient humidity, proportions of solvent, phase of the moon , etc etc etc etc etc etc etc

A shocking concept: The Matt varnish DOESN'T EXIST. It's only the old gloss varnish with tiny white particles in suspension. These particles make the colors underneath affected, so you need the least amount possible coat of matt aplied, hence the importance of the previous gloss protective coats.

I recommend Vallejo as it NEVER gave me the slightest problem. And it dries VERY fast!

I'll tell you a secret: I know of Games Workshop staff using it as final coat for the models they paint in the shops. If you know GW corporative policy, is capital sin not to use the in-house products. Go figure...

[w8cmp]

Any idea who sells this online ?

Cheers

Chris

[TonyB]

Chris for Vallejo, try Wargames Emporium in Sheffield, I know that they stock the Vallejo acrlic paint range so they migh have the varnish as well, although I am not 100% on that.

http://www.wargamesemporium.co.uk/

[DX-SFX]

A shocking concept: The Matt varnish DOESN'T EXIST. It's only the old gloss varnish with tiny white particles in suspension. These particles make the colors underneath affected, so you need the least amount possible coat of matt aplied, hence the importance of the previous gloss protective coats.

The matting agent tends to collect at the bottom so you do need to stir the varnish well. It's the rough surface texture that matt varnish creates that scatters the light rather than reflecting it from a smooth surface that makes paint "matt". It also tends to darken paint that is already matt. If you paint with gloss and then overcoat with matt varnish, there isn't as much colour shift.

[akoenig]

Originally Posted by DX-SFX

The matting agent tends to collect at the bottom so you do need to stir the varnish well. It's the rough surface texture that matt varnish creates that scatters the light rather than reflecting it from a smooth surface that makes paint "matt".

As far as I know, I thought It's the matting agent which produces the rough texture.