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Old 21-02-2006, 12:13 AM   #1
MangaMax
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Default Accurising the Airfix Hawk

Just got one of these again for the first time since the 70's.
In the Catacombs it says that it's a pretty accurate kit but does anyone know - or can point me in the right direction - of ways to improve on it?
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Old 21-02-2006, 01:17 AM   #2
DX-SFX
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It all depends which studio model you want to model. The Airfix kit is very accurate to the small one but it's not the same as the large one.
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Old 21-02-2006, 06:28 AM   #3
john_trek
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I've just spent the last month building this kit, so I'm very familiar with all the kinks.

The basic shape of the Airfix Hawk is fairly accurate to the 16" studio model. At least, looking at the pics, it sure seems like it to me. As in all model kits from that era, there are a lot of detail problems, but unlike the Airfix Eagle, they are comparatively easy to overcome.

There are only a few fairly major errors and problems to overcome.

Command module:
A lot of people rant about how bad the command module shape is, but the two Hawk models differed a lot in that area, so I never really felt the Airfix version was that bad.
Simple stuff:
- lacks a "nipple" underneath to represent the laser
- The two small white square panels above the viewports should be moved aft behind the larger panel. not in front.
- centerline detailing directly above the pilots can be added easily with sheet plastic.
- I added a ridge around the viewports to help with the painting.

Weapons pods:
- The barrel is much too thin in my opinion. I wrapped a peice of 010 sheet plastic around the center section to make it a bit plumper, then used putty to bevel it into the leading "gun port"
- there should be an apron between the upper outer edges of the pylon and the barrel.
- the pylons holding the pods are too thin, so I added a little extra thickness with some sheet plastic on the bottom. I also added leading edge addition with holes drilled into it to match the detailing on the original.


Side Boosters: I always thought they looked slightly too thin, but the only solution to that seemed to rebuild them from scratch, so I just learned to live with it. The bigger problem is the forward end caps need to be rotated about 10 degrees. This requires some surgery, but it's fairly easy to do with a small saw. And who cares about getting them EXACTLY rotated the correct ammount. Just eyeball it, and make sure the two sides match.

Engine mount: This area is almost totally wrong.
- The two hemispherical 'bumps' need to be sawed off and replaced with small spheres
- There is a lot of detail in the area surrounding the engine mount that is completely missing, time to get out your parts box and start gluing in some interesting gizmos.
- The four tubing detail parts that are supplied with the kit are too thick in my opinion, so I rebuilt them from plastic tubing.

Booster Piping and Cylinders. : There is a set of piping supplied with the kit that glues to the underside. That piece is relatively accurate, but there are 8 additional pipes that connect at right angles to the centerline of the model. In addition, there are two cylinders that nestle in between the pipes.

Spine Cabling: There is a set of three cables that run along the top of the length of the spine.

Engine: The ribbed surface detail on the fat cylinder is somewhat out of scale with the original. As nearly as I can tell from looking at the pictures the center tank was made from a Saturn V interstage. That means the ribbing should be a lot smaller, and be a lot more of them. I just sanded them off, then re-built the other details since they were all at the wrong end of the tank!
A lot of people compain the engine nozzel is not the correct shape, and they are correct, but frankly I can't see the difference unless I hold the model up and stare at the pics of the original, so I just left well enough alone.

And so on, and so on and so on..... there are lots of small surface details missing or somewhat inaccurate. You can grow old hyperdetailing this kit. I myself have aged five years in the last month. But I'm close to completing it and will post pics in a day or two.

If I had to do it again, I would definately do a few of the major things: re-align the booster leading end caps, beef up the thickness and detailing on the weapons pylon, re-detail the engine mount between the fuselage and the engine. Then I'd concentrate on adding surface detailing that is quick and painless and shows up well when painted.

Some good references:

Jim Small's custom built Hawk:

http://www.smallartworks.ca/Gallery/Hawk/Hawk.html

David Sisson's photos of the original SFX model:

http://homepages.tesco.net/d.sisson/OriginalHawk.htm

Catacombs:
http://www.space1999.net/users/catac...s/w2mhawk.html
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Old 21-02-2006, 07:26 AM   #4
MangaMax
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Excellent work that man - that's JUST the sort of thing i was after
Brilliant photos too. I'll be using everything there for my "bible".
One last question though - colour brands to use?
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Old 21-02-2006, 09:26 AM   #5
DX-SFX
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Regular white primer and Humbrol standard gloss orange with a matt coat sprayed on top.
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Old 21-02-2006, 12:20 PM   #6
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Hey John,
Sounds like you've really worked the hawk up
Do you have any pics? Would love to see the project when you have it finished
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Old 21-02-2006, 05:15 PM   #7
modelincard
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Okay, stupid question, but as long as we're on the subject...

How do the pilots get in and out of the Hawk? I don't see any door or hatch.
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Old 21-02-2006, 05:38 PM   #8
doon
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Quote:
How do the pilots get in and out of the Hawk? I don't see any door or hatch.
Good question Stupid answer.....Asguard beaming technology
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Old 21-02-2006, 07:34 PM   #9
john_trek
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How do the pilots enter? Not a stupid question at all, in fact it's one of the reccuring themes on Hawks. I've seen speculation that the two raised panels over the pilot's heads are really ejection seat covers, and that they can be opened normally before launch to serve as entry/egress.

In reality (are we allowed to use that word in this context?) it's probably not something that the designer gave a lot of thought to at the time.

Next most common question: Where are the landing gear?
Answer: I don't have a clue. Maybe they are never intended to land, but are based at a space station someplace.

Next most common question (from non-modelers): Do any of you people have a life?
Answer: Of course I do. I log on everyday to this forum to see what my fellow compuslives are talking about.
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Old 21-02-2006, 08:01 PM   #10
DX-SFX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_trek
Next most common question (from non-modelers): Do any of you people have a life?
Talk about ask the toughest questions!

Do I?

I have no idea.
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Old 21-02-2006, 08:13 PM   #11
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Not that it's official, nor even the best solution, but Roberto Baldassari went with the assumption (as have other people) that the Hawk was strictly space-based, and didn't require landing gear. As a result, he placed the entry hatch on the bottom of the Hawk, between the first two sets of VTOL thrusters.
So why have VTOLs on a ship that can't land? I'd guess that they're to move the Hawk away from whatever station it's docked to. Seems like a few too many (plus they're so big) for that purpose, though...
I suppose that the Hawk could be assumed to land in a specialized cradle or scaffold that would keep it off of the ground (and make maintenance easier). I've seen pics of a hangar model that shows a Hawk nestled in such a way. (It was Jim Small's, with some of the equipment & scaffolds made by Donald Hayunga, and appeared in the mostly Space: 1999 issue of SciFi & Fantasy Models International, #39.)

Martin Bower's website has some pics of the Hawk models, as well, but they aren't as crisp as some of the others already linked to at other sites.
http://www.martinbowersmodelworld.co...scale_Hawk.JPG
http://www.martinbowersmodelworld.co...f_The_Hawk.JPG
Here's a link to his whole Space: 1999 page: http://www.martinbowersmodelworld.co...pace_1999.html
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Old 22-02-2006, 09:00 AM   #12
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Next most common question (from non-modelers): Do any of you people have a life?
Answer: Of course I do. I log on everyday to this forum to see what my fellow compuslives are talking about.


Sorry to go a bit OT, but not only do you have a life - but why is a guy your age playing with these toys? Ever seen blood boil?
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Old 02-03-2006, 11:33 AM   #13
MangaMax
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Just arrived.
I know some folk collect boxes and this'll be going in the bin along with the instructions.
Unless anyone wants it?
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Old 02-03-2006, 11:52 AM   #14
Elric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MangaMax
Just arrived.
I know some folk collect boxes and this'll be going in the bin along with the instructions.
Unless anyone wants it?
I'll certainly take them if you don't want them
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Old 02-03-2006, 01:31 PM   #15
MangaMax
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Done.
Bung me a PM and i'll get 'em off to you.
How'd you package an empty package? :/
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MangaMax
Done.
Bung me a PM and i'll get 'em off to you.
How'd you package an empty package? :/
PM sent - Cheers!
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:02 PM   #17
MangaMax
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Can i ask you guys another question?
Started on the Hawk and i'll be using all the info above for trying to accurise it a bit.
But anyone know of anything commercially available that can be used to plug the main engine bell?
Know its gonna bug me if i don't put something in there...
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:25 PM   #18
john_trek
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How ironic.... the resin recast I built has the engines plugged, and I was seriously considering boring it out with my dremel tool.

Oh well, one man's steak is another man's IMAI Eagle kit (yuck).

The first idea that pops to mind is bondo auto body putty. I've tended to use it for smaller fill jobs, but considering it is intended to let poor people fill dents in their cars, you'd think it would be up for the job.
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:41 PM   #19
MangaMax
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Hmmm, i was thinking of some sort of widgetThing, maybe some sort of plate with holes similar to what's in the Eagles.
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:47 PM   #20
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M,
The baffle setup would look good plus give another tie in with the eagles
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