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Old 23-09-2010, 05:25 PM   #41
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Paul,
All that preparation work you did is really paying off now, its looking great
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Old 24-09-2010, 01:21 PM   #42
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This project is superb to say the least.
The chemiwood pods look perfect!
Spine looks spot on too!!!
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Old 26-09-2010, 09:16 PM   #43
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thank you everyone for the kind words, i feel all i am really doing is assembling parts i have had made for me, hence how it's coming together fairly quickly. not much to report today, i have finished all the panel detailing on the rear pods and given the front pods a quick coat of primer( how i managed this outside today i dont know the weather has been c**p). if the weather keeps up painting will be slow to say the least. next up i suppose is to detail the rear with some more pipework and put in some more support for the rear bells.
also this week i must do some casting for a couple of members that has been put to the side because of this build , sorry guys. will post more pics as progress is made , but will probably be towards the end of the week.
cheers Paul

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Last edited by paul gray; 26-09-2010 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 27-09-2010, 12:14 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul gray View Post
thank you everyone for the kind words, i feel all i am really doing is assembling parts i have had made for me
Not at all, it still takes a lot of modelling skill to put any group of parts together as nicely as you're doing. Great work! and it's always useful to other people to be able to see how things go together and where any problems are.

Best Regards.
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Old 27-09-2010, 06:30 AM   #45
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Paul - did you have to gently sand the leg pods to remove milling marks before attaching the panels ?

I ask because I've heard that it is necessary to do this, and wondered if the milling pattern still shows after primer.
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Old 27-09-2010, 06:58 AM   #46
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Quote:
I ask because I've heard that it is necessary to do this, and wondered if the milling pattern still shows after primer.
Yes it does, in my experience. Hardly noticeable though. Some pods have don't have any marks on them so it's luck of the draw. I've found that a prime, sand, and then a re-prime removes them. The plasticard panels help to hide them as well!

Last edited by 29390; 27-09-2010 at 07:06 AM. Reason: spelling.
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Old 27-09-2010, 08:19 AM   #47
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re the last 2 posts , i did have some very faint milling marks on the pods , but these were smooth to the touch and i didn't sand them. on close inspection of the pods with only a light coat of primer the milling marks have disappeared. seems i was a bit lucky then not to have had them show after painting. no painting today as it's light drizzle outside
cheers Paul
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Old 30-09-2010, 05:45 PM   #48
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it's a good news bad news day today. rockwellcm infromed me that his shelves( made to the measurements of the D. P. and DX plans) were too big for the resin cages. i got mine out and likewise mine are too big. also the shelf with the 2 large hemisphere cant go in even if the shelf were the correct size. the only way for this shelf to be inserted is to only have one hemisphere and when the shelf is in place attach the second hemisphere. i am still at work but when i am home i will post some pics to explain. on the positive side i have cut the 2 large brass tubes that rum from the top to bottom of the cages and added some more pipework to the rear. the pods have now had 2 coats of primer, so a light rub down and then some ford diamond white. see you later with some pics
cheers Paul
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Old 30-09-2010, 09:52 PM   #49
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as promised the good and the bad. i think they are self explanatory so i wont add anything else
cheers Paul
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:11 AM   #50
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If you decide to rebuild your shelves, the thickness of the perspex should be 1/8" (3mm). Unless I'm mistaken, those look to be slightly on the thin side.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:12 AM   #51
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Tools Shelves and such....

Hi Guys,

Where do you think the problem is? Undersized cages? Oversized shelves? Blueprint error?

Can you let me know how much error there is?

I checked against the Prud'homme drawings and the parts have been cut spot on and the material thickness is within tolerance. Frankly, I'm at a loss.

I do care that you get the result you are after though, I remember Mark42 discussing the very tight fit of the shelves in the refurbishment article for Eagle One. He did say that parts had to be removed prior to removal and refit of the shelves originally:

http://homepages.tesco.net/d.sisson/eagle1.htm

His excellent pictures show the pair of cages were dismantled fore and aft and then the shelves removed, basically one big fiddle. I would follow the same sequence in reverse. Dry assemble the shelves into one cage half then try to close them into the frame by fitting the other end. You may need to fettle so keep a file handy - at least this is fixable with material to work with rather than too small eh?

I am prepared to re-cut new ones if this is a problem with just the resin cages as I want this to work for you, I will be using Bill's cage frames and everything system in my own build eventually.

Let me know.

Cap'n.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:31 AM   #52
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Default Styrene shelving?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 29390 View Post
If you decide to rebuild your shelves, the thickness of the perspex should be 1/8" (3mm). Unless I'm mistaken, those look to be slightly on the thin side.
Those are not the shelves as supplied. I can only think Paul is testing to check if they will fit with a thinner profile material - that's quite clever actually.

Cap'n
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:32 AM   #53
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Bernie,your sizes are spot on,its Uncle Bills Frames,the `A` section is slightly too small,which will not allow the Shelfs to fit
I have been a bit busy and not had time to post a few pictures

The solution for me is to sand a few millmeters with 60 Wet and Dry, from the shelfs,i have done 1 and left the other one

In my case i have partly damaged the overhanging one with the large EMA dome

Its easily fixed,and all will become clear with a few pictures

Donald
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:42 AM   #54
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Default I was framed I tell ya....!

Hi Donald,

OK, now let's try to fix the problem. Altering the cages at this stage I would say would be impossible so modifying the shelves would be the best option.

Once you are finished please let me have the finished sizes so I can note them for the next builder. Are you having to move any components around?

Cap'n
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:58 AM   #55
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I am replying via my phone,but the shelfs that Paul has in his pictures are not the ones supplied to me ,bernie your ones are thicker,and the EMA parts are gray,not white.
The shelfs (clear perspex) supplied to me are correct,I tried the fit in the AB 44" frames and the fit perfect.

The only shelf this will cause a problem with is the one where the parts are offset (with the EMA Domes which overhang the shelf) I have had to burst these off and have damaged some parts.
I built these before I got the cages,so had no option in my case.
The reason why I did this is you will end up sanding the large dome,because of the overhang,then the EMA pipe will not line up.
I hope this makes sense.

It would be worth pointing out the 2 valves (1/18 ) which Paul has pictured which join the top rail,are the wrong size (they are too small and wrong valve) This was pointed out to me last night by a Fourm Member who phoned me regarding another matter.

It would be fair to add,that this in no way has any affect on how the walkway parts fit,which are a perfect fit in Bills cages

There is no real problem here,and any issues are easily fixed with a bit of sanding,and do not detract from the look in any way


Donald

Last edited by rockwellcm; 01-10-2010 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:15 AM   #56
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The shelves will always be a tight fit. On my Jim Small kit I had to cut a small notch out of each corner of the shelves to fit within the frame, and where the centre vertical inboard cage members run past them, just to get them in there.

Getting them in to pre-built cages that are not separable (like the brass ones are) will always be difficult when all the parts are attached to the shelves. That is why I have left off my pre-assembled plumbing which will be attached once I have the shelves in place within the cagework.

Don't forget that these cages sit on top of the brass angles which support the leg pods, so you will need to leave off the underside plumbing anyway so it can be attached around the brass angles later. Other than the plumbing it should be possible to wiggle the shelves inside the frames with one of the domes attached and once any adjustments have been made for slightly undersize cagework. The remaining parts will then need to be attached once the shelves are in position.

Last edited by w8cmp; 01-10-2010 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:16 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwellcm View Post
Bernie,your sizes are spot on,its Uncle Bills Frames,the `A` section is slightly too small,which will not allow the Shelves to fit
Correct. The shelf size is critical. When I built my shelves for Eagle I, I deliberately undersized them slightly to take this sort of thing into account. Fortunately, the season 2 shelves don't have the large Hemispheres on them. But even with split cages, I still think I will have difficulty fitting them!


Last edited by 29390; 01-10-2010 at 04:47 PM. Reason: punctuation
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:06 PM   #58
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Default Here`s the Images

Here is a visual of the walkway shelfs,i have shaved about 2 mm using 60 grit wet and dry to get the shelfs to fit,the white one is now resized to suit Uncle Bills Cages,the yellow one is shown un touched to show the problem and without breaking all the bits off,there is enough room to shave 1mm from each side

a AB frame is shown to show how the shelf should fit the cages,un-modified,



if you have made the rear left shelf,and the front left shelf,you will have to break off the large domes to sand the shelfs before fitting.

you can fix the fit for front right and rear right with the parts fixed to the shelf without any damage to the parts attached.

i hope this clear`s things up

Donald

Last edited by rockwellcm; 03-01-2011 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:43 PM   #59
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here's my take on the problem. we are talking minute amounts here. i have dismantled my shelves and cut a slither of plastic away and they now fit into the cage. as it has been pointed out my shelves are too thin, so tonight i will be cutting more plastic , 3mm thick and 28mm wide to give a tiny clearance into the cage. if anyone has any spare valves they would like to sell to complete the rear right i would be interested please.
cheers Paul
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:39 PM   #60
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I take it you're talking about the spine longerons? This is where I think Uncle Bill got them from.

http://www.rbjplastics.com/standard.htm#gftube

I've considered doing the cages in Carbon Fibre, that's a last resort if I can't source brass ones for my build.
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