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Old 12-01-2010, 12:56 PM   #1
Known Space
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Default 2001 Discovery build

Despite all the snow the postie arrived yesterday with the long awaited 2001 Discovery model from Starship modeller! And, I have to say I'm well pleased with it! I spent a couple of hours last night cleaning it up and it required surprisingly very little of that (apart from a bit of effort cutting some small cast parts from their sheet).
There are 160 pieces in all and their quality is very high.I had no faults at all with any of them ,apart from a few tiny bubbles, and the details are amazingly crisp for the scale 1/144. I was particularly impressed by the CM. Apart from removing the pouring stubs from either half of the module, it fitted together exactly as in the pics!!
I was hoping to light it as the interior is very well detailed but I cannot see how I'd do it. You need to buy a 1/8th " steel rod for the spine. I had intended to get a hollow brass or copper and run an LED down it to the CM but I couldn't get a hollow brass tube long enough (24") and even if I did I don't think the wires would have fit down it.
I'll have to give it some thought. Anyone else have any ideas let me know,I'd be open to suggestions. Its a real tight fit in that CM.
I won't be doing many builds this year so I can take my time with this one and I'll want to.Its a wonderfully detailled model and a credit to Stargazers patient construction.the casting is certainly as spot on as the Orion i built in the summer.
And I certainly won't be painting it until the weather warms up! Unless I build a spray cabinet.
Overall this will end up about 30" long. I am delighted with it as it was the Timeslip version of the Discovery being built on this site that really kicked me into wanting to do resin kits.













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Old 12-01-2010, 03:21 PM   #2
Steve Gerard
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Great project, enjoy building the model.

Last edited by w8cmp; 24-03-2010 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 13-01-2010, 03:39 AM   #3
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Default Wires in a tube

If the problem is getting the wires down the tube go to your local electronics store and see what they have for "magnet wire" it is the stuff that electric magnets are made of. or you could find an old electric motor and get the wire out of it. It is copper wire with a thin varnish on it to act as an insulator. Good luck with it. Can't wait to see the build.
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Old 13-01-2010, 07:19 AM   #4
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Great Moonbus , thats a very clever idea !!! I would never have considered copper wire on the grounds it would be uninsulated but the motor use is so obvious I feel a bit thick now!! Great tip for everyone though and thanks again.
I'm going to have to go to Maplin anyway so I will ask. I'm looking to put in a couple of small magnets at the back of the CM to hold the top in place. Pinning it all around is difficult because of the curve of the CM walls (apart from at the back). There has been so much effort put in to the interior it would be a pity not to be able to see in to it.
Now I've got to find 3ft of 1/8th inch hollow copper pipe for the spine! My local model store certainly didn't have any. Anyone in the UK know a supplier?
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Old 13-01-2010, 01:35 PM   #5
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I'm no expert, but maybe a plumbers or DIY store?
Looks a great model you've got there.
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Old 13-01-2010, 01:55 PM   #6
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Copper is very soft and will bend. Brass is better but carbon fibre would be better still (or fibreglass). You may not get CF hollow at that size though. Kite shops and most radio controlled model aircraft shops sell carbon fibre sections. Possibly consider steel piano wire.
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Old 13-01-2010, 04:23 PM   #7
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Thanks DX ,I shall look for the alternatives as you suggested. Now I'm becoming a regular at the local modelshop in Wakefield the guys there will probably be able to find what you've mentioned.They are a pretty helpful bunch, much like the people here. I was going to go out tomorrow but I don't think there is much chance of that now. The roads are completely covered by a layer of lethal black ice. I have never seen it so dangerous! On the main road a gritter has actually skidded and taken out a number of cars. Nobody has gone anywhere today and I don't think there will be any change tomorrow.
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Old 13-01-2010, 05:34 PM   #8
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You could maybe use an 1/8 inch brass or copper tube with just one (insulated) wire down it and use the tube as your other wire? Presuming you can find one long enough - as you said...
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Old 14-01-2010, 07:25 AM   #9
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Cheers Skiff! I'm now thinking about building the power source in to the CM. As I will be using one, perhaps two LEDs at the most the power source need not be very much at all, so I'm thinking something like a watch or computer battery. They are about 3V and have the advantage of being small, thin and circular and I could tuck them in somewhere around the top half of the CM. I don't know how long they would last but I will only ocassionally have them on, for the purposes of photos etc.
I've decided to make the top half of the CM removable, I'll add a floor to it and pins and a magnet so it will attatch to the collar, which is quite substantial and firm incomparisson to the bottom half of the CM (for the purposes of pinning things anyway.) That way at least I'll get to see all the detail thats been put into the inner sphere.
That will also mean I can go with DXs suggestion about a solid steel spine which will be essentail for the rigidity and strength of the model, as opposed to a hollow tube.And hopefully that means I will only have to drill one hole in the main body section for a display stand rod.
So that, I hope is that. I'll kick off as soon as I've got the bits but it isn't going to be any time today as the roads seem worse than yesterday.
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Old 16-01-2010, 05:22 PM   #10
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Great .. thanks Known Space

I am glad that you like it,

There are a couple of threads over at Starship.

John O is doing a build with pictures,

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/...ic.php?t=79707

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/...ic.php?t=80139

Ian
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Old 17-01-2010, 12:20 AM   #11
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I purchased the Timeslip version of this kit, but when this one came up, I was impress with the details seen on this.

Tough buy now, for I am saving up for Wonderfest.
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Old 17-01-2010, 06:14 AM   #12
T70MkIII
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Starship modeler out of stock already??! Hope they build some more...
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Old 17-01-2010, 07:12 AM   #13
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DX was dead right about the steel. It was the only alternative in the end. Even it has some flex in it so the spine and module will have to be supported by something along the length of the craft. The next thing I shall have to do is build that before going along with the rest of the it.
Its been a surprisingly quick build so far but the fiddlie bit with the spine modules will take time. Sorry about the pic quality but I'm in a hurry this morning-now all the snows gone I've a few things to do. It feels almost tropical today with the temperature up to 4 C!! Funny how you adapt to things.
Stargazer- I'll have a look at Starship Modeller, thanks for the tip, and of course the kit.

PS- If anyone in the UK is thinking of doing anything outside do it this weekend- there are warnings of heavy snow returning AGAIN for Thursday up here!!







Last edited by Known Space; 17-01-2010 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 17-01-2010, 07:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T70MkIII View Post
Starship modeler out of stock already??! Hope they build some more...
The trick is to get onto the pre-order list The kit will be in constant production... I will be very happy if this model is around as long as the old Lunar one!
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Old 17-01-2010, 08:42 AM   #15
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Thanks Ian, have pre-ordered. Can't wait!
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Old 17-01-2010, 09:06 AM   #16
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That looks like another fine kit. I'm looking forward to seeing this come together.
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Old 24-03-2010, 06:16 AM   #17
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Well, the weather has warmed up enough for me to get into the garage and make a stand without my fingers numbing with cold so I have. It still needs a little work to finish it off but its good enough to hold the Discovery up for the moment so I can work on her.
I've finished the spine off ( apart from the antenna mounts) so the command module is next to do. I intend to make the top half detatchable if I can so I can get into see the very good detail inside. I may also add some smaller detailing, now that I've become a bit more practised with scratch building bits .
The modules lined up quite well and even after I figured a way of evening up all the module mounts so that they were all the same hieghts that didn't take a lifetime of fiddling. They aren't glued in yet as I want to paint some separately and a couple of them are still slightly out of alinement,so I can tweak them latter.
For those buliding the big D I've included my method below.It ain't perfect but if any one can improve or add to it please do, as I know we have some experts here.

Mount all the supports on a spare bit of steel rod (you should have an off cut from the spine) Push them tightly together and hold in place by wrapping sellotape at each end of the steel rod to stop them slipping and moving about.
Get a marker pen and cover one side them completely. Then get a thin brass rod and rest it in the curve above (see below). This stops the modules shifting when you sand them. You can use a small round file to even this grove up first, it helps with overall alinement.



Lightly sand the modules against a sanding block very gently and evenly. Make certain the surfaces are absolutely flat against eachother.
When all the black marker has gone then it will mean all the units will have a single flat level surface.



Do the other two sides in the same way. The key is to do it very gently, so that not too much is taken off at the same time .I marked each side with a different coloured pen after I finished so that when you remove them all the
modules stay true to one another.



When you are happy, loosen one end of the cellotape off and slip the first three module supports to the end of the rod and start to assemble the unit there at the end of the piece of steel, before transferrring the completed piece to the D spine. I used thick and thin superglue as the drying times varied enough so I could get a piece in place ,position it and it would hold fast. I would use the thin with the very small pieces.
Overall, the modules went together quite well, although where a unit was composed entirely of B and C mod types I had to wire them together to keep it all in one piece. If you had an A mod in there it didn't matter as it kept the whole thing ridged while you built it.

Just thread the unit on to the D when you have finished it. It will also keep the module build sequence in order so that you don't loose track of them. It helps to number them with a marker pen as wel. I also chose to build the mods from the engine block to the cm to keep the construction accurate, othewise it can get a little confusing. But thats well covered in the instructions with the D.

I'm pretty pleased with the overall result, but a few mods are a little out of line so I'll tweak them when I glue them totally to the spine.









Hope that helps anyone building the D. The hardest part so far was actually building the base (though those little mod units are a bit fiddle at times) to support the ship as it is such a difficult shape, being so long and narrow.
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Old 24-03-2010, 09:15 AM   #18
T70MkIII
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That's looking fantastic, KS - looking forward to seeing more of your build progress.

One tip (too late for you!) for sanding long things like the agglomeration of modules is to tape your sandpaper to an appropriately large sheet of plate glass - gives great smoothness and control. Nice for sanding down aluminium castings etc too...
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Old 24-03-2010, 09:33 AM   #19
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Thats a great looking kit you are building "Known Space". I think if you made the base look like the "monolith" it would set it off nicely.
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Old 24-03-2010, 10:03 AM   #20
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That's shaping up nicely.
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