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Old 07-02-2010, 01:16 PM   #1
aj-1701
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Default 23 inch RU Eagle

As I have said else where on here I decided on getting this kit late August in 09 because I always wanted something like a filming/hero/studio eagle since 1999's first episode 'Break Away aired down under and when a little monitory bonus came my way in November I made the plunge. Iíll be honest some of the things I had read on the web made me think that I wouldnít bother with this kit. After my Master Piece Time Machine I also told myself no more large resin kits. However If my teenage son doesnít always listen me why should I pay attention to me alsoÖ

So the first and obvious task was to make sure all the parts were accounted for. What better way is there to do that than by washing all them all and then laying them out to dry and run inventory.

As with all larger kits that tell you how big they are I still find myself sticking something near it as a visual reference. Such as the little Imai Eagle I finished recently. Also except for any on the run modifications I will pretty much be doing this as a OOB build. I'd love the Samll artworks thruster set but the frieght just dosn't warrant it.

The kit seems fairly clean and crisp without to much flash. I remember reading a build up review talking about tiny little pin holes all over the kit. To date I havenít found too many though there are the ususal suspects of air bubbles here n there. The detail is pretty good and again going by past reviews and articals it also is much improved. My only real beef are the doors on the passenger pod. All the main filming models had raised features but the makers of this kit went with the opposite?? And I'm pretty sure this may have been mentioned on here once or twice... On the whole though it was money well spent

Before I started any with any bench work on her I had to do some reshaping of parts such as the cages, spine and thruster bells etc. This was not so much a fault of the kit but more the fault of my repacking and storage over a very warm summer. But some rather hot water and a bowl of iced water soon fixed those.

I made up my mind as I was test fitting the nose cone that I would knock up a basic cockpit back wall... So much for oob building I just didnít like the idea of painted out top and bottom windows on the nose cone. The funny thing is that the sfx exterior shots of the cockpit show the pilots head and shoulders when the studio sets have the pilots sitting deep down in the nose?? I may still use an in scale astronaut pilot figure from an old broken kit just for the heck of it.

I did the cockpit wall tonight and decided to add the pilot. Now the whole scratch build wall is a little on the rough side but since it will only be visable through the two windows

and the pilot might be a tad over scale but for me it's livable as this whole part of the build is just for atmosphere. All thas left is to scrounge through my decal leftovers for a number on the door

The door frame is masking tape I pressed over the door on the back section of the nose cone then cut out the profile. The padding is molded from blu-tac and then covered in supa glue. The rest is just thin plasticard which I will do the detail by painting it up. I wonít be lighting the build so Iíll just paint the interior in whites and yellows on the walls to simulate the back lite set illumination. That way it'll hide my rather rough attemp at scratch work...

With one wip I read, the builder built and painted just about all the kit in small sub assemblies. For me I think it makes more sense to assemble the main pod and access corridor sections as one piece so thatís what I did. Once I had filled in the gaps I primed the top of the pod sub-assembly. However the change to wet weather here over night and also the amount of primer I put on Ďdohí means I canít handle that piece for a few days yetÖ So I found out this morning


Note the white bits where the primer came off when I handled it thinking it was dry.

I gotta say that even with just the primer coat on, the detail on the access ways appears to be much more comprehensive than those older reviews I've seen. I guess some manufactures do listen to whatís being said out there.


The next major thing for me to tackle are the side pods, legs and suspention. Some adjustments to the instructions as to measurements and the first one came out ok. It was one part of the build that I was dreading but again my ability is better than my concerns.

You can't see them clearly in the pic but over each of the little pins I used from the rod supplied in the kit I glued some hex shaped plastic rod to cover them and give the illusion of bolt and nuts.

More to follow soon...

Cheers,

Alec.
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:37 PM   #2
Stu73
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Be interesting to see it come together. Are you going to modify the kit with aluminium bells etc. ?
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:29 AM   #3
aj-1701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu73 View Post
Be interesting to see it come together. Are you going to modify the kit with aluminium bells etc. ?
It'll be interesting to see if I can get it toghether Getting the bells was one plan, they themselves weren't costly but the frieght just didn't make it work in the modeling budget I have a couple of extra Vtolls that came with the parts so I'm going to experiment with some bare metal foil I grabbed from my local hobby shop. I also jumped on the net to try and get someof the Jbot decals but it seems like they are hard to get at the moment...

Cheers,

Alec.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:40 AM   #4
NeoGoglu
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Hi Alec !

I received my kit last week, and i must say
this kit improved a lot over the years.

It has almost no hidden small holes or air bubbles,
the parts are smooth, clean with no extra flash.

It's obvious that Ron did a clean-up on some parts
before sending me the kit, great job.

Except for the following, maybe too much stuff was removed
or the cast is not perfect :



I would like to know if your CM was like that also ?

There's not enough space for the sensor dish on both sides.

I don't know if i should drill a perfect hole or leave it that way
and fill the gap with putty between the top and bottom part
(blue arrows) :



And if Cosmic_X or PurpleAlphan are reading this, please let me
know what you did on your CM also.

Thanks to all of you.

Andre

Last edited by NeoGoglu; 08-02-2010 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:53 PM   #5
Stu73
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If you fill with putty, won't the back piece fail to fit the CM?
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:46 PM   #6
NeoGoglu
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It will fit, but it will look smaller.

I think i will drill a new hole.
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:57 PM   #7
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Definitely drill a new hole...
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:28 PM   #8
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Like Chris says drill a hole,Using a FLAT Bit,a HSS drill will cause it to splinter,and crack

Temp glue a bit of wood,or plastic inside the hole, so you can get a good accurate start,and it should be easy,also get someone to hold the CM or it will take off,when the flat bit starts to bite
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:24 AM   #9
aj-1701
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I think having the CM in one piece would have been better. It would have saved the effort of filling the not so even seam. As for reshaping the side sensor mount holes the best way I found to do that was after I glued the two halves together. I just used a 3/8 drill bit to get the hole a little more even then used a conical grinding bit on my little grinder with the speed wound back. The tedious part was constantly stopping every couple of seconds and test fitting one of the sensors till it sat where I wanted it to. It all came out pretty good for me as the resin seems a lot softer and more workable on my kit.

Cheers,

Alec.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:51 PM   #10
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I think it would be impossible to cast it whole, as the rear of the CM curves back inward. Now if you wanted a solid cm...
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj-1701 View Post
I think having the CM in one piece would have been better. It would have saved the effort of filling the not so even seam. As for reshaping the side sensor mount holes the best way I found to do that was after I glued the two halves together. I just used a 3/8 drill bit to get the hole a little more even then used a conical grinding bit on my little grinder with the speed wound back. The tedious part was constantly stopping every couple of seconds and test fitting one of the sensors till it sat where I wanted it to. It all came out pretty good for me as the resin seems a lot softer and more workable on my kit.

Cheers,

Alec.
That's eactly how I did it......dust everywhere but got there in the end.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:01 PM   #12
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AJ-1701......really like the idea of glueing the hex rod to make it look like bolts.......shall be using that one mate.....with your permission of course!!!
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:12 PM   #13
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Looking Good mate.
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Old 18-02-2010, 01:14 PM   #14
aj-1701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigyan65 View Post
AJ-1701......really like the idea of glueing the hex rod to make it look like bolts.......shall be using that one mate.....with your permission of course!!!
Help yourself mate
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Old 18-02-2010, 01:17 PM   #15
aj-1701
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Looking Good mate.
Thanks healvis.

So here is a brief updateÖ The weathers been a little more humid than normal for this time of year so working on it has been slow added to some hard days at work and a w/end away on valentines itís been one of those on, off and on again sort of weeks.

However the end result is certainly up there though not without a couple of annoying factors and the one to top the list was on two parts of the seam where paint just wouldnít dry there regardless of how much sanding and re-priming I did. I had read a few times that resin can behave that way but I was sure it was something else and as it turned out it wasÖ I used a two part epoxy to glue the two halves together, this sort of glue Iíve not had a lot of experience with and it seems that I applied some of the glue with little or know hardener in a couple of areas so to try and cure the problem I applied ca glue over the problem areas and left it over night. Yes folks it worked so I was then able to work in earnest on the CM witho ut the finger sticking zones...

I also had to do some grinding and sanding on the rear frame on the CM then drill some holes for the mounting pins and connecting bolts.

I did originally had a piece of hex plastic rod I started using as bolts heads and nuts but it seems our 18 month old puppy found it on the floor and well I soon found out that I didnít have it as a usable piece any more. In a way this helped me discover a better source to act as bolt and nut ends from deep with in my old gaming bits box

The result is that I have now officially finished the command module sub assembly. With all the variations out there on the web it seems like itís a fairly subjective thing on how it all should look but I did my best to capture the scheme and look of it even if some of detail took on some artistic/modeling license. I also added some extra little decals I had left over from an old military vehicle, not canon but the just added that nice little touch. Also Iím not sure how the decals with the kit were made but they are a little fragile and the colour actually washes off them!! The added panels are areas I masked off and airbrushed a couple of different greys and creams. I then drew in some pencil lines for added detail, blended them in and ta-da.

The next part of the build will be to finish off the passenger pod and companion ways. I know I originally said that I was going to do it all oob but I canít stand the recessed doors so Iíll be scratching up some new ones.

Cheers,

Alec
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Old 18-02-2010, 04:23 PM   #16
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Nice job on those seams. Looking good.
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Old 18-02-2010, 04:54 PM   #17
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I just received an RU transporter today and all I can say is WOW they have made BIG improvements on the castings and the whole kit in general!

When I ordered the kit at the end of Jan Ron told me they were in the process of making new moulds and all I can say is the new moulds have been worth the wait - virtually no air bubbles, no warp on any of the pieces (including the spine which I was most concerned about) and with most of the main holes pre-drilled and the windows already cut out (on both halves in my kit... two top halves? still the fit is good so won't matter).

I put off buying this kit for years and years after seeing the poor quality of the castings and the horrible companionway detailing but they have resolved these issues now it would seem and I am as we say "happy as Larry" with the kit. Now, it joins the ever growing list of kits to tackle in the future... Well done RU!
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Old 19-02-2010, 12:42 PM   #18
MikeMercury
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Just going through the parts and assembly instructions of my new RU eagle as well as looking through this site for build up tips when it occurred to me that given the resin spine's tendency to warp over time, has any one thought of or tried installing a steel rod throughout the body from the engine cluster central post through to the beak ? I just thought maybe this would maybe solve the warpage over time problem and since the pod is non removeable it wouldn't get in the way? Also the leg pod through bars could be attached thus hopefully preventing sagging over time...

Anyone tried this?
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Old 20-02-2010, 11:50 PM   #19
aj-1701
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This is the finished result on the comapanion way detail. The processed I used was to paint up some of the panels, grill and other bits then apply and ink wash to these then dust and brush in some grey and black artist chalk in areas I though any moon dust might settle over time in active duty. Then give it gave it a coat of clear flat...


Here is the finished result on the changed door detail I did as well as the pod with one side detailed. To help with added depth I drew in pencil lines in the corrugated sections then blended it down with a stiff flat artists brush...

Just a note the door pic is in natural light through the window and the rest are with the camera flash.

Once I finish the pod and rear companionway frame work I'll be doing the leg pods.

Cheers,

Alec
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Old 25-02-2010, 12:39 PM   #20
aj-1701
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Not much to report except for a steady pace... I have pretty much finished the panel and shading/dirtying down detail on the pod and rear companion way section. I should have the decals and clear coats done by the end of the week end. So then it's on to the main spine and leg pods...

I have been getting a bit more adventurous with my air brushing of late too so I added some panel detail to the top of the pod along with some shading using artist chalk to break up the flat wide area. I also detailed the bottom of the pod much the same with ab, chalk and pencil plus I added some little bolt n nuts to the pods legs as they are way to soft in detail.



Thanks for looking.

Alec.
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