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Old 04-05-2010, 03:56 PM   #1
Slate Mcleod
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Default UNCL Thunderbird Three Completed

Ok ...finally completed my UNCL TB3 after taking weathering advice from others on this forum. I think it turned out pretty good and I'm more than pleased with it. A few pics below and a short review of the pro's and con's of the kit...







Castings of all parts were of the excellent quality I've come to expert from UNCL's
resin productions. Air bubbles existed but they were minimal and great care had been taken when making the moulds that seam lines etc were generally placed in areas they would be hidden upon completion of the model. At first glance when opening the box I thought this one was going to be a doddle to put together. How wrong could I be!
I started with the lower part of the main fuselage, attaching the 3 engine pods to the central structure. Needless to say my first attempt went wrong and they all had to be removed and re-attached. Getting these 3 engine pods equa-distant from each other and at the same height proved difficult to say the least but was absolutely essential if the finished model was to look correct. As with most resin kits there were no pre-drilled holes to help align the parts so I had to add my own attachment posts using brass rod and vey carefully make sure everything fitted together perfectly. Filleting the seams between the engine pods and the main hull also proved much more difficult than expected and in the sanding process I managed to remove many of the panel lines on the resin. These had to re-scribed later on which in itself was difficult! The instructions recommend super-glue for attaching the parts to each other but this kit relied so much on very small connections between the engines, 3 upright struts, cooling fins etc I ditched super-glue in favour of a two part epoxy adhesive named "Super Steel" made by "Plastic Padding". This stuff bonds so strongly it makes standard super glue look like Polystyrene Cement (!) and it is easily the strongest adhesive I have come across so far. It doesn't bond instantly like super glue but has a 3/4 minute curing time in which parts can be adjusted making it ideal for resin models. Very small pin-holes in the resin were filled with blobs of super-glue and sanded back. Larger ones I filled with automotive "knifing putty" which is just fantastic for resin models. It's cheaper than standard model kit fillers, dries relatively quickly and can be wet or dry sanded very easily.
The kit supplied brass rods that formed the struts between the 3 engine pods and the main tubular fuselage were discarded and replaced with longer struts of the same diameter brass pipe. The originals should have fitted over very tiny raised posts on the engine pods but I knew that with the slightest knock they would just fall off! Instead I cut off the resin posts and drilled about a half inch deep into the top of each pod and sank the new longer brass rods into the inner surface bonding them with Super Steel. There was no way they would come out! Similarly I replaced all of the other resin attachment posts on the slanted veins that connect from the struts to the top of the fuselage. These were all cut off, drilled and replaced with new metal posts made from small nails with the heads removed.

The model was painted with grey primer and then a top coat of Orange using "Peugeot Seville" as suggested by some others on this forum. Believe it or not it took 1200 ml of paint to cover this model effectively and get a good enough finish (4 rattle cans worth!). The blue areas around the fins were painted Vauxhall Atlantis blue which seemed like a close enough match to me. The cooling fins and circular sloped disc above them were just painted in standard grey primer which seemed a pretty close colour match to the six foot studio prop!
Masking and painting the white and black bands around the engine pods proved to be more difficult than expected and had to be done a number of times before I was happy with the final results. Small kit parts were added to the main hull to represent the kind of detail seen on the larger filming model.
The ALPS printed decals were very very fragile and I had to place them very carefully as there would be no second chances. I also added tiny black and white circles and squares made from Letraset rub down transfers to simulate further surface details.
The whole model was sealed with a couple of coats of clear-cote and left to dry for about 24 hours before I added the weathering. This was done with a mixture of black and grey MIG powders which were brushed on into all of the panel lines and then slowly wiped off creating downward streaks of dirt. This had to be done carefully as I didn't want to over-do it too much. A final coat of clear varnish sealed everything all in.
This kit builds into a great looking replica of Thunderbird Three and I would recommend it...but only for those with good experience of tackling resin models.
Some more pictures taken prior to the dirtying down stages can be found in this thread....

http://www.eagletransporter.com/foru...120#post150120

Last edited by Slate Mcleod; 04-05-2010 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:16 PM   #2
w8cmp
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What a beauty !

What sort of length is the finished model ?
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:07 PM   #3
Slate Mcleod
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Originally Posted by w8cmp View Post
What a beauty !

What sort of length is the finished model ?
It's approx 18 inches tall...too large for the display cabinet !
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:26 PM   #4
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excellent job.

really nice, a model to be proud of

Mike
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:15 PM   #5
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Very nice indeed. That'll be the one PE used for their launch bay kit, then!

I've got the original SHED (now UNCL) 12" version. It has a slightly longer nose forward of the docking ring, which I personally think is more accurate.

Keith
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:34 PM   #6
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I think I've got that one too...





Chris
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:39 PM   #7
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Yep, that's the one. You can tell by the angle of the vains at the bottom being a bit too obtuse, which I see has been fixed for the 18" version. Never got round to fixing that.

Keith
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:01 PM   #8
uncle bill
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Well done that man
This is my SHED TB3
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:29 PM   #9
Slate Mcleod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saturnapollo View Post
Very nice indeed. That'll be the one PE used for their launch bay kit, then!

I've got the original SHED (now UNCL) 12" version. It has a slightly longer nose forward of the docking ring, which I personally think is more accurate.

Keith
Yes I believe it is the same model PE used Keith...even the panel lines are the same. The only thing I don't like about the smaller SHED vesion is the 3 engine pods appear too slim.

Slate

Last edited by Slate Mcleod; 05-05-2010 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
The only thing I don't like about the smaller SHED vesion is the 3 engine pods appear too slim.
That's true.

Keith
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Old 18-05-2010, 12:13 PM   #11
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She looks sweet Slate I grabbed one of these a few months back when the AU$ was better and my budget was just as good. I agree about the quality it all looks very clean and crisp in the box and should be a nice little build. But after me RU 23 inch Eagle I'm having a rest from resin for a bit. I only hope mine will look as good as yours when its done. Thanks for posting.

Cheers,

Alec.
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Old 18-05-2010, 04:25 PM   #12
Nike
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Wow, that's awesome. I had a chance to buy this model some time ago, but I didn't because I really suck at kits. (I probably buy the 18 inch model from FabGear) Cool about this particular kit, is that it is 18 inch long, 45 cm in 1:200 scale that makes 90 metres, wich is close enough to Thunderbird 3's 'real' size for me. So it probably looks great with the Aoshima 1:200 Thunderbird set.

Anyway, Really nice done man! Weathering also nicely done, it just looks awesome
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Old 18-05-2010, 04:31 PM   #13
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nice job i like the model,just did not like the heavy pannel lines i would have filled them in and penciled them on as like the original im scratch building one right now at 23" got the body done and thruster units i will post pics at a later date
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Old 18-05-2010, 05:42 PM   #14
Slate Mcleod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj-1701 View Post
She looks sweet Slate I grabbed one of these a few months back when the AU$ was better and my budget was just as good. I agree about the quality it all looks very clean and crisp in the box and should be a nice little build. But after me RU 23 inch Eagle I'm having a rest from resin for a bit. I only hope mine will look as good as yours when its done. Thanks for posting.

Cheers,

Alec.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nike View Post
Wow, that's awesome. I had a chance to buy this model some time ago, but I didn't because I really suck at kits. (I probably buy the 18 inch model from FabGear) Cool about this particular kit, is that it is 18 inch long, 45 cm in 1:200 scale that makes 90 metres, wich is close enough to Thunderbird 3's 'real' size for me. So it probably looks great with the Aoshima 1:200 Thunderbird set.

Anyway, Really nice done man! Weathering also nicely done, it just looks awesome
Thanks for the comments guys. It's a nice model alright, just a PIG to get all of the parts lined up perfectly but that's just the design of the ship nothing to do with the production of the model itself.
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Old 29-01-2014, 11:27 PM   #15
mysteronagent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle bill View Post
Well done that man
This is my SHED TB3
Really love this diorama....would love to know how you made it.
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Old 31-01-2014, 03:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slate Mcleod View Post
Ok ...finally completed my UNCL TB3 after taking weathering advice from others on this forum. I think it turned out pretty good and I'm more than pleased with it. A few pics below and a short review of the pro's and con's of the kit...


Castings of all parts were of the excellent quality I've come to expert from UNCL's
resin productions. Air bubbles existed but they were minimal and great care had been taken when making the moulds that seam lines etc were generally placed in areas they would be hidden upon completion of the model. At first glance when opening the box I thought this one was going to be a doddle to put together. How wrong could I be!
I started with the lower part of the main fuselage, attaching the 3 engine pods to the central structure. Needless to say my first attempt went wrong and they all had to be removed and re-attached. Getting these 3 engine pods equa-distant from each other and at the same height proved difficult to say the least but was absolutely essential if the finished model was to look correct. As with most resin kits there were no pre-drilled holes to help align the parts so I had to add my own attachment posts using brass rod and vey carefully make sure everything fitted together perfectly. Filleting the seams between the engine pods and the main hull also proved much more difficult than expected and in the sanding process I managed to remove many of the panel lines on the resin. These had to re-scribed later on which in itself was difficult! The instructions recommend super-glue for attaching the parts to each other but this kit relied so much on very small connections between the engines, 3 upright struts, cooling fins etc I ditched super-glue in favour of a two part epoxy adhesive named "Super Steel" made by "Plastic Padding". This stuff bonds so strongly it makes standard super glue look like Polystyrene Cement (!) and it is easily the strongest adhesive I have come across so far. It doesn't bond instantly like super glue but has a 3/4 minute curing time in which parts can be adjusted making it ideal for resin models. Very small pin-holes in the resin were filled with blobs of super-glue and sanded back. Larger ones I filled with automotive "knifing putty" which is just fantastic for resin models. It's cheaper than standard model kit fillers, dries relatively quickly and can be wet or dry sanded very easily.
The kit supplied brass rods that formed the struts between the 3 engine pods and the main tubular fuselage were discarded and replaced with longer struts of the same diameter brass pipe. The originals should have fitted over very tiny raised posts on the engine pods but I knew that with the slightest knock they would just fall off! Instead I cut off the resin posts and drilled about a half inch deep into the top of each pod and sank the new longer brass rods into the inner surface bonding them with Super Steel. There was no way they would come out! Similarly I replaced all of the other resin attachment posts on the slanted veins that connect from the struts to the top of the fuselage. These were all cut off, drilled and replaced with new metal posts made from small nails with the heads removed.

The model was painted with grey primer and then a top coat of Orange using "Peugeot Seville" as suggested by some others on this forum. Believe it or not it took 1200 ml of paint to cover this model effectively and get a good enough finish (4 rattle cans worth!). The blue areas around the fins were painted Vauxhall Atlantis blue which seemed like a close enough match to me. The cooling fins and circular sloped disc above them were just painted in standard grey primer which seemed a pretty close colour match to the six foot studio prop!
Masking and painting the white and black bands around the engine pods proved to be more difficult than expected and had to be done a number of times before I was happy with the final results. Small kit parts were added to the main hull to represent the kind of detail seen on the larger filming model.
The ALPS printed decals were very very fragile and I had to place them very carefully as there would be no second chances. I also added tiny black and white circles and squares made from Letraset rub down transfers to simulate further surface details.
The whole model was sealed with a couple of coats of clear-cote and left to dry for about 24 hours before I added the weathering. This was done with a mixture of black and grey MIG powders which were brushed on into all of the panel lines and then slowly wiped off creating downward streaks of dirt. This had to be done carefully as I didn't want to over-do it too much. A final coat of clear varnish sealed everything all in.
This kit builds into a great looking replica of Thunderbird Three and I would recommend it...but only for those with good experience of tackling resin models.
Some more pictures taken prior to the dirtying down stages can be found in this thread....

http://www.eagletransporter.com/foru...120#post150120
Thanks so much for this write up- I have one in a box awaiting proper time to do it justice and your insights will help me a lot in this!
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Old 01-02-2014, 04:09 PM   #17
Slate Mcleod
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No problem Richard, happy to help !
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:47 AM   #18
andersonitis
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Got a Shed Tb3 for sale
Pm me if interested
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:35 AM   #19
geoffreyvanvugt
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Where can i get the UNCL TB3?
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:07 AM   #20
Boldman
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Timeless Hobbies lists it on this page http://www.****************.com/thunderbirds.html but its a hefty 115!

Edit: wtf? The URL was corrupted when I posted and then edited the message. Does this site have something against Timeless Hobbies?

Just use Google for timeless hobbies then put /thunderbirds.html after the domain name...

Last edited by Boldman; 07-06-2014 at 10:09 AM.
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