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Old 15-03-2008, 08:20 PM   #1
Eagle
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Default Randy Cooper Star Destroyer - The Ultimate Speedbuild™

Everything's in place, so Kuat Drive Yards is open for business.




Kit available from: http://randycooper.blogspot.com/

Quote:
"I maintain that the effectiveness of the Star Destroyer stems from not only its massive firepower, but from its size. When citizens look at a Star Destroyer and then compare it to the craft which might be mustered to attack it, they have a tendency to dismiss such a notion as suicidal rather than approach the problem tactically." ― Moff Wilhuff Tarkin
Watch this space.

Feel free to comment but might cut posts later for brevity/clarity.

Finished model - pics here:

http://www.eagletransporter.com/foru...ead.php?t=5137

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Old 16-03-2008, 06:30 PM   #2
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Ever feel like you've bitten-off more than you can chew?...



Dining room pressed into service and Mrs Eagle not impressed.

Again.

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Old 16-03-2008, 08:03 PM   #3
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You'll have it done in a couple of days !

Does it need some internal framework (wood or something ?)

I'll be doing something similar with a Hawk soon
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Old 16-03-2008, 08:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
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You'll have it done in a couple of days !
As always, that's the plan.

Quote:
Does it need some internal framework (wood or something ?)
Supplied but not in pic.
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Old 16-03-2008, 09:57 PM   #5
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Is that part of the internal framework in that gold packet Mark.
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Old 16-03-2008, 10:13 PM   #6
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No - that's for the engine lighting effect
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Old 16-03-2008, 10:42 PM   #7
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Noticed that... when only the best will do. Somehow I don't think you'll be whipping that out as a speed build. Something to savor
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Old 16-03-2008, 10:47 PM   #8
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Oh, forgot to mention - I've no intention of lighting this on this build. Perhaps later this lifetime.

pInG!

Must have a crap batch of CA 'cause this thing's needing clamp power!

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Old 16-03-2008, 10:57 PM   #9
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I bought some proper 'Loctite' superglue the other day (thick stuff with squeezy bits on the bottle to dispense) and it's incredible. I've used loads of brands over the years, but this is really good and grips tight - and even quickly which is unusual for the thicker CAs.

Having said that I've had some pretty dire batches of superglue in the past which are as useless as water for joining pieces.

Are you using an accelerator spray ? That would solve your problem pretty quickly...
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Old 16-03-2008, 11:07 PM   #10
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Old superglue that's been opened (that's over a year old) can go off. This leads to brittle joints and if the glue has started to thicken, definitely chuck it.
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Old 16-03-2008, 11:08 PM   #11
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BTW, have you washed the parts in cellulose thinners? Any trace of silicone oils or release wax will stop almost anything bonding properly.
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Old 16-03-2008, 11:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DX-SFX View Post
BTW, have you washed the parts in cellulose thinners?
Of course not - it's me we're talking about here!

Like the PE23, parts washed and mating surfaces sanded.

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Old 16-03-2008, 11:12 PM   #13
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That's the way to do it.
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Old 17-03-2008, 02:31 AM   #14
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Now this is a thread worthy of a bookmark...

Last edited by LeeJustin; 17-03-2008 at 02:31 AM. Reason: poor spelling
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Old 17-03-2008, 03:15 AM   #15
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Heyyy! The man who started it all! Hope life's treating you well.

---------------------------
Slow progress on day one... at least the hardest part (starting it) is out of the way.

Is that gap s'posed to be there? Seems that way on the instructions too...

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Old 17-03-2008, 04:01 AM   #16
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Hey guys,

Newbie on this board but lurks on SS modeler. I'm still waiting for my kit from Randy; about 15th in line now.

I think the gap is normal. Wondered about it when I say the initial assembly pictures from the CD. But though a little bit more about just now. The reason is the difference in angle between the two ends of the front pieces. For example, the front prices, when glued together, forms a straight edge, whereas the rear of the pieces will form an angle. Therefore, there should be a very slight concavity (or convex, never remeber which) from the rear to the front where the two pieces are joined.

Seems it'll be a tricky operation to get it right. Glad I'm not the 1st one (besides Randy) to put this thing together,
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Old 17-03-2008, 04:28 AM   #17
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Welcome to the forum snag Yes its one thing over the model before you buy it, another thing all together to put it together. And Eagle you're worried about rattle cans, I'd just be pooing myself trying to work out how to build it.
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Old 17-03-2008, 09:44 AM   #18
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Looking at the opening photo, you can see a slight concave curvature to the fold line underneath but to recreate that you'd need a slightly wider gap in the middle of the pieces, not the ends. A gap at the ends would make the fold line convex. Is this curvature even desirable or am I missing something? Star Wars isn't exactly my thing.
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Old 17-03-2008, 11:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DX-SFX View Post
Is this curvature even desirable or am I missing something? Star Wars isn't exactly my thing.
I'm told the gap will close just fine...

Guys, what do people recommend for filling hairline gaps? I've used Milliput before with a great deal of success for things like this:



...but seams are a bugger. Is there any product that can be applied from a syringe?
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Old 17-03-2008, 12:16 PM   #20
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Tippex typewriter correction fluid or even just paint. If you're going to paint with enamels or model acrylics you can use a cellulose filler primer paint applied with a brush.
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