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Old 20-04-2008, 04:24 PM   #1
Slate Mcleod
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Default Building the Aoshima Thunderbird One

Whilst work continues on my IMAI Big Thunderbird 2, I filled in the times waiting for paint and adhesives to dry but picking up the Aoshima Thunderbird One model which I hoped was approximately the same scale to display the two models together.
Compared to the TB2 kit which was plagued with inaccuracies, the TB1 is pretty much a kit that can be built from the box. You can choose to display the model with landing gear down or up but as I was also contemplating a launch bay diorama (watch this space!) I chose to leave the landing parts off. Because of the working swing-wing action I decided it would be best to assemble and paint the wings first as once I’d glued the two fuselage halves together it would have been difficult to make sure I got paint all over the entire wing as parts of them are hidden beneath the two cowl-like assemblies that adorn the central tube part of the fuselage. I also familiarised myself with the review that Mack did of this kit a few weeks backs, and decided to take much of his advice, especially with regards to weighting the model.
Model kits are always very light in weight and I also wanted this kit to feel like a die-cast or wooden prop, so I added weights in the form of pieces of old brass, coins, filler and resin. I had a large piece of brass hosepipe connector that was a similar diameter to the main fuselage so that was cemented in place above the wing mechanism. Being very careful NOT to go anywhere near the wing opening mechanisms I then very carefully poured liquid resin into the fuselage from the bottom, and then (once the bottom resin had fully cured) through the hole in the top of the fuselage where the nosecone would later sit.







The lower part where the rocket engines are was made of thin plastic braced with some plastic rectangular rods but I didn’t feel this was substantial enough. I filled the void areas in this part with liquid resin. The blue piece above the rockets with the large “1” on the side was also weighted with little packets of coins wrapped in masking tape and then sealed inside with wads of P38 filler – making sure I didn’t fowl the wing opening mechanisms.
Like Mack I also found that many parts needed filling in order to get rid of the seam lines and this was tricky in places, especially around the rocket motors. There were times I wished I’d rather have put up with the visible seams rather than trying to work bits tiny of wet and dry paper into the gaps around the engines without destroying the shape and detail of the parts!



Paper masks protect the already painted wings during the primer stages...



More soon!

Slate

Last edited by Slate Mcleod; 20-04-2008 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 20-04-2008, 08:16 PM   #2
Knight1966
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On Size Slate what are we talking in terms of Inches for this one?
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Old 20-04-2008, 08:18 PM   #3
Slate Mcleod
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I've noticed that the decals on this model that say "Thunderbird" are too fat and should be thinner. I think Mack pointed out the same thing. There are no after market decals available for this kit and I can't get hold of any dry transfer lettering in this font so far. I don't have the facilities to print my own decals. Has anyone here used the "make your own decals" on your home PC printer from this company??

http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk...4&RootCatID=14

Slate
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Old 20-04-2008, 08:22 PM   #4
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Your main problem will be that inkjet printers can't print white (they use the absence of ink to generate white). ALPS printers could, but I believe they have long been discontinued unless you can find someone who still owns one.

Keith
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Old 20-04-2008, 08:32 PM   #5
Slate Mcleod
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Originally Posted by Knight1966 View Post
On Size Slate what are we talking in terms of Inches for this one?
It's approx just over 9 inches mate. A very nice little model.

Slate
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Old 20-04-2008, 08:34 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by saturnapollo View Post
Your main problem will be that inkjet printers can't print white (they use the absence of ink to generate white). ALPS printers could, but I believe they have long been discontinued unless you can find someone who still owns one.

Keith
Cheers Keith. The company I linked to do produce a white decal sheet so these could still be made on a standard ink jet printer...the only problem being that I would have to very carefully cut each letter out individually!
It might be easier just to trim the decals that come with the kit if I'm going along this route...

Slate
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Old 20-04-2008, 09:12 PM   #7
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Isn't this kit 1/144 scale, the same as the Takara big TB2? Is the Imai big TB2 1/144 as well?

Cheers

Tony
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Old 20-04-2008, 09:38 PM   #8
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Whatever the scale its looking great so far. Its funny....I've got together some weights for the Angel Interceptor I'm slowly working on too as the light weight plastic feel just doesn't seem right after resin and diecast.
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Old 20-04-2008, 09:52 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Spellbinder99 View Post
Isn't this kit 1/144 scale, the same as the Takara big TB2? Is the Imai big TB2 1/144 as well?

Cheers

Tony
Tony...I've wondered the same myself. If the Aoshima really is 1/144 that would make it TINY compared to the Takara TB2. It would almost fit in the Pod and it's certainly around the same length as the Pod. Looking at images of TB1 and TB2 flying together I have to think that perhaps you are correct and I've I've got my scalings wrong. My Takara is all boxed up at the moment as I've just sold it but before it goes I'll try and photograph it next to the Aoshima model.



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Old 20-04-2008, 09:55 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Tony42 View Post
Whatever the scale its looking great so far. Its funny....I've got together some weights for the Angel Interceptor I'm slowly working on too as the light weight plastic feel just doesn't seem right after resin and diecast.
I know exactly what you mean! It's nice to feel the weight of a nice SOLID object isn't it? Until I started collecting die-casts this had never bothered me before but it certainly makes a huge difference when you handle the model. I've also noticed that other people seem to give it more respect when it's heavy as it all of a sudden becomes more than just a plastic kit! On the plus side it also makes the models much tougher.

Slate
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:00 PM   #11
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Don't worry about unpacking the Takara. I have both the Takara TB2 and the Aoshima TB1 and the size comparison seen in that screenshot certainly holds up when you compare the two directly.

Indeed, it was when I got the Takara that I realised that the sheer size of TB2 "in real life" must be huge! Certainly compared to the many 1/144 scale aircraft and models I have. I know a F-15 or the such like could fly straight through Thunderbird 2's Pod without hitting the sides by the look of it.....

Cheers

Tony
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:16 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Spellbinder99 View Post
Don't worry about unpacking the Takara. I have both the Takara TB2 and the Aoshima TB1 and the size comparison seen in that screenshot certainly holds up when you compare the two directly.

Indeed, it was when I got the Takara that I realised that the sheer size of TB2 "in real life" must be huge! Certainly compared to the many 1/144 scale aircraft and models I have. I know a F-15 or the such like could fly straight through Thunderbird 2's Pod without hitting the sides by the look of it.....

Cheers

Tony
Then again...and I'm being pedantic here I know lol, but it truly illustrates the scale problem in Thunderbirds. Looking at the images below compared to the size of the runway TB2 is no wider than 3 and a half Tiger Moth airplanes!







The wingspan of a Tiger Moth is 29 feet making TB2 approx 101.5 feet wide (Okay I didn't factor in the additional wingspan of TB2 because the palm trees drop away but you know what I mean...lol)

Slate
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Cheers Keith. The company I linked to do produce a white decal sheet so these could still be made on a standard ink jet printer...the only problem being that I would have to very carefully cut each letter out individually!
Sorry, that was what I was meaning assuming you started with white (as opposed to clear) decal paper. The ALPS actually prints white onto clear film and you can apply as standard.

You would have to have some sort of coloured edge to the letters otherwise you have white lettering on white paper and it would be invisible :-)! That would be a time consuming job!

In this instance I think it might be kind of obvious, but you could try this, I sometimes try and match the colour of the model and print that as a background to the lettering (I used this technique on the MEV side and tail lettering on Zero X).

Keith
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:27 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by saturnapollo View Post
Sorry, that was what I was meaning assuming you started with white (as opposed to clear) decal paper. The ALPS actually prints white onto clear film and you can apply as standard.

You would have to have some sort of coloured edge to the letters otherwise you have white lettering on white paper and it would be invisible :-)! That would be a time consuming job!

In this instance I think it might be kind of obvious, but you could try this, I sometimes try and match the colour of the model and print that as a background to the lettering (I used this technique on the MEV side and tail lettering on Zero X).

Keith
That's a bloody fantastic idea mate. If I was using a flat colour rather than a metallic paint I think that would certainly have been the answer. I think in this instance though either trimming the original kit supplied decals or trying to find the Grotesque font in letraset in something near 10.2 mm is the only answer (read that as in i'm getting the scissors out )

Afterthought : Hang on though...Zero X is metallic too yes? Did you just use a very similar flat blue with just the vaguest of edges around the lettering??

Also how did you make the decals??

Slate
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:40 PM   #15
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No worries Slate, I am quite aware of the size and scale inconsistencies.

One thing remains, the Takara TB2 is naffin big! Plus the included figures with it and the various Pod sets do appear to be around 1/144, so I was quite happy to go with 1/144 as a suggested scale, ignoring quoted "real" sizes for TB2.

Sorry to divert from the TB1 Build anyway.

Cheers

Tony
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Spellbinder99 View Post
No worries Slate, I am quite aware of the size and scale inconsistencies.

One thing remains, the Takara TB2 is naffin big! Plus the included figures with it and the various Pod sets do appear to be around 1/144, so I was quite happy to go with 1/144 as a suggested scale, ignoring quoted "real" sizes for TB2.

Sorry to divert from the TB1 Build anyway.

Cheers

Tony
No need to apologise Tony! As I'm now on the hunt for a TB3 in a similar scale feel free to muck in with whatever scaling thoughts you have! Any input is GOOD input

With a bit of luck someone will have another shot of TB2 and TB1 together that totally contradicts the ones I've just posted!

Slate

Last edited by Slate Mcleod; 21-04-2008 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:47 PM   #17
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I could never get a metallic shade that looked remotely good in the photos so ended up going with a non-metallic shade (I make my models purely for photography so can get away with cheats like this). Anyway see the photo below.



Another trick if you can get any other colour of suitable Letraset bar white, is to apply it to the white decal film - DO NOT BURNISH THE LETTERING) and paint over it with the colour of the model. Once dry carefully lift the Letraset with masking tape from the decal film and hey presto white lettering agaist the colour of your model. It can be tricky, but I used this on my SHADO mobiles and it looks not bad.

Keith
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Old 20-04-2008, 10:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saturnapollo View Post
I could never get a metallic shade that looked remotely good in the photos so ended up going with a non-metallic shade (I make my models purely for photography so can get away with cheats like this). Anyway see the photo below.



Another trick if you can get any other colour of suitable Letraset bar white, is to apply it to the white decal film - DO NOT BURNISH THE LETTERING) and paint over it with the colour of the model. Once dry carefully lift the Letraset with masking tape from the decal film and hey presto white lettering agaist the colour of your model. It can be tricky, but I used this on my SHADO mobiles and it looks not bad.

Keith

Yep I've actually done a similar trick on another model in the past Keith. I think it was the large "A" on the bottom of the Angel Interceptor. I actually remember thinking "this is bound to fail" and it worked a treat!

Slate
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Old 20-04-2008, 11:05 PM   #19
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A suitable grey with very close trimming might work for TB1.

However best of luck, however you do it. Certainly be interested to hear your solution!

Keith
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Old 21-04-2008, 10:07 AM   #20
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Someone could make a fortune making decals for all our kits. I wonder what's up with JBOT?
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