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Old 14-03-2009, 03:57 AM   #1
Puffy_Shirt
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Default Warp 12" Eagle project

Hello all,

My eagle interest has been stirred by two things. One is the Sci Fi and Fantasy Modeler special on the Eagle and the other is perusing this forum!
I purchased the Warp Eagle kit a few years ago and have gotten it out on the bench to begin...finally.

One question concerning cleaning up the white metal truss, is it full of lead? What precaution should I take when sanding it? The instructions don't specify.

Any advice/pointers on this kit would be appreciated. I'll bet a few of these kits have been worked by you guys.

Thanks!
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Old 14-03-2009, 04:41 AM   #2
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From what I know there's no lead in the diecast spine, cages etc. This is a daunting project, but the best model of an eagle in this scale. Post some shots as you go.
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Old 14-03-2009, 06:51 AM   #3
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The reference to taking precautions during clean-up will include using a face mask for when sanding any mould lines from the resin components though. Always use a decent quality one - trying to hold your breath is not recommended. I went to a local DIY store and bought a respirator with a set of fume filters suitable for spray painting, like they use when spraying cars. It was not that expensive, protects me when using rattlecans and my airbrush as well as when I am sanding or cutting resin.
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Old 18-03-2009, 03:26 AM   #4
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Default Main Truss

I have started the arduous task of cleaning up the main truss with small files and steel wool.
Sadly as you can see there are two or three breaks. The lower main tube is broken there...you just cannot see it well in the photo. The vertical pipe looks broken; but from the other side it might be hanging on by a thread.

Any ideas how to fix it? I was thinking of using either epoxy or superglue.
Can it be soldered or is the melting point too low on this material?


Last edited by Puffy_Shirt; 18-03-2009 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 18-03-2009, 05:22 AM   #5
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What a mess. You might be better to scratch build one.
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Old 18-03-2009, 08:07 AM   #6
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Some superglue should fill the small vertical crack. It looks like the angled cross piece can be eased down and again superglued. As long as the main horizontals are OK then these two small areas shouldn't affect it structurally.

Alternatively, contact your supplier/stockist and Warp will send you a replacement girder. They do a replacement parts service for their kits.
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Old 18-03-2009, 09:08 AM   #7
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Now that's not a bad idea.
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Old 18-03-2009, 09:10 AM   #8
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I would highly recommend that you buy your self a FLEX-I-FILE from Micro Mark if you local model store don't stock them, this tool could easily save you days on the cleanup. Low temperature solder is available for whitematal work but if you don't know what you are doing then this is not the model to practice on.
Best of luck with the build.
http://www.micromark.com/SearchResul...rase=flex+file

Last edited by uncle bill; 18-03-2009 at 09:11 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 18-03-2009, 10:31 AM   #9
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Default Puffy Shirt

hey man-

saw your shot of the "spine" for your 12 " project- man-it's ugly..........

I can't believe some manufacturers audacity, on releasing such poor quality product....
Nevermind- we'll press on regardless (POR) !!!!

First up- get some good personal protective equipment (PPE)
-clear polycarbonate safety glassess and a breathing mask/respirator with 2 interchangeable canister units- I use the P2 canisters- glasses and respirator should cost no more than $40 bucks ( this is in Australian $$ )

Buy some "Tamiya Basic style putty", some needle files, about 5-6, different profiles, and some 5 minute araldite( a 2 part epoxy resin compound, that when mixed together, forms a vitually indestructable bond- check instructions....... )

It begins.................
If you need any form of psych therapy, here's your big chance to get started-
start filing down all imperfections you can spot- this is an exceptionally laborious process-

Araldite any cracks/breaks you find, and keep filing........use the putty to fill any other cracks/ imperfections you may find, and keep filing...............stop peridically to gauge your work, then keep filing.........

OK- get on down to your local hobby shop- you'll need to buy a can of something called " MR Hobby Surfacer 500" this acts as an undercoat, but also fills small imperfections and smoothes irregular surfaces. Wear your mask, as this stuff- although very effective, stinks to high heaven-use in a well ventilated area.

Keep your glasses on at every stage.

Repeat above process until you get the effect you desire, alternately, whack the whole thing on ebay, sell it off and get a Replicas Unlimited 23" Eagle for $200 US-
Product quality is a solid 7/10-

either way- good luck man....and keep on filing.........................
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Old 18-03-2009, 10:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Boris View Post
Repeat above process until you get the effect you desire, alternately, whack the whole thing on ebay, sell it off and get a Replicas Unlimited 23" Eagle for $200 US-
Product quality is a solid 7/10-
.... but not as accurate.
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Old 18-03-2009, 11:19 AM   #11
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The spine that came with my warp kit is pretty clean. Luck of the draw I guess.
James
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Old 18-03-2009, 06:05 PM   #12
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Mine have been nigh on perfect after a little flash removal & clean up.
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Old 18-03-2009, 07:01 PM   #13
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Which is why seeking a replacement isn't a bad idea. Thanks for the flex-i-file link Uncle Bill
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Old 19-03-2009, 12:26 AM   #14
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Thanks for the advice guys. I had planned to get the flex-i-file just for this project!

BTW, I took your advice and have contacted federation models about getting a new truss from Warp models. We'll see. I ordered the kit back in 2002.
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Old 28-03-2009, 07:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaponsmith View Post
The reference to taking precautions during clean-up will include using a face mask for when sanding any mould lines from the resin components though. Always use a decent quality one - trying to hold your breath is not recommended. I went to a local DIY store and bought a respirator with a set of fume filters suitable for spray painting, like they use when spraying cars. It was not that expensive, protects me when using rattlecans and my airbrush as well as when I am sanding or cutting resin.
A tip I have is when sanding down resin with Wet & Dry paper make the paper wet wet wet wet and add some dish soap, shop the dast going airborn and like Weaponsmith, I using a face mask/ respirator to, safety glass keep you eye clean and free of dust and latex gloves for you hands, one thing a black bin liner bag over you T shirt to protect you of the dust to.
A mate recommended the bin liner to me year's a go, he is a Railway or Railroad modeler if you like, it work great.

Happy modeling
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Old 28-03-2009, 10:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puffy_Shirt View Post
The lower main tube is broken there...you just cannot see it well in the photo. The vertical pipe looks broken; but from the other side it might be hanging on by a thread.
Neither of those points you show are holding on by any thread. They're broken. Probably during the shipping process. WARP may replace it, but don't panic just yet.....it's a very easy fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Puffy_Shirt View Post
Any ideas how to fix it? I was thinking of using either epoxy or superglue.
Can it be soldered or is the melting point too low on this material?
The melting point is low, but soldering (or, more specifically, just re-welding together those spots) is very easy. As a matter of fact, I've built several of these over the years and I solder every part of those frames.....cages together and cages to spine, and have never had a problem yet. Find a small soldering iron with the smallest tip you possibly can. I have one with tips that go down to the size of a MM or so with a heating element about the size of a #2 pencil I use. I even modified a couple of these tips so that they're even smaller than stock, just to use on small projects.

Like this one:

http://www.micromark.com/ELECTRONIC-...TION,7632.html

And get a couple extra tips:

http://www.micromark.com/1and32-MICR...-TIP,7633.html

Also, what I do to get some very good white metal solder is, I save all the shavings and flash (from filing, sanding and cleaning the white metal) and form these into small rods and use these as solder so that the joints all sand the same. If you use solder, there will be differences in the two materials and it makes the cleanup of the welds more difficult at this small scale. I can explain how I make these "white metal scrap" rods if you can't figure out a way to do it.

This next part is VERY important if you want to go the soldering route and I can not stress this enough, so listen up......

DO NOT, under ANY circumstances, use ANY TYPE OF FLAME soldering equipment!!! NO, NO, NO, NO, NOOOOO!

You will INSTANTLY regret that decision!

Now, having said that, soldering is absolutely the best way to assemble one of these WARP Eagles and makes the whole thing VERY sturdy and rigid.

Rob.

Last edited by Eagle-1; 28-03-2009 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 26-04-2009, 03:22 AM   #17
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^ Thanks much for the great advice, Rob.

I received a package today all the way from England. It was a new (and unbroken) truss section! Woo Hoo! Also, there were some additional resin items such as new shoulder pods. The resin is a big improvement over the original brittle items.

Thanks a million, Federation Models and Comet Miniatures!
That is what customer service is about...


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Old 26-04-2009, 03:29 AM   #18
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Great news that should make things a lot easier.
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Old 26-04-2009, 04:24 AM   #19
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Good news indeed.

Now, if you fancy soldering this model instead of gluing, don't be bashful! It's not hard to do and it will allow you to do things with it that you wouldn't be able to do otherwise. Just dive in and I'll offer any help you need.

Rob.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle-1 View Post
Good news indeed.

Now, if you fancy soldering this model instead of gluing, don't be bashful! It's not hard to do and it will allow you to do things with it that you wouldn't be able to do otherwise. Just dive in and I'll offer any help you need.

Rob.
I'm way too scared to try soldering it. I had planned to use epoxy per Jim Small's recommendation.
How did you do it with solder?
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