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44" AB update


For those of you who are building, or are about to undertake a 44"AB build, I'll post some more information regarding some interesting design resolutions. Namely...

Correcting the crooked leg pod mounting beams.
One look at these babies on my example when I opened the box was enough to make me put it back in the box, and swiftly!
We can correct this, yes we can!

How do I fasten the leg pod suspension springs top and bottom so the foot pads don't fall out?
Easy, by manufacturing a small ingenious brass insert which screws within the spring at the bottom end, and is held captive by the screw at the bottom. Top end? I'll show you later.

Passenger pod feet modifications, kit ones are entirely wrong!
We will solve this - easily.

Replacing ALL elbow hinge pieces with Brass. DON'T waste your time using plastic or you'll be sorry!

Leg pod 'H' frame strengthening modifications.
We can modify these to make them much stronger, and they will look much more like they should.

HIDEOUS Leg pod moulding deformation on the underside angle faces.
There are a few things you need to know about these areas before you get to work.

Coping with the air bubbles.
Yes, probably the biggest reason you've put it back in the box hitherto.
Don't stand for it! I'll show you how to deal with these - Mentally and practically!

White metal hell.
Never seen so much white metal eh?
I'll tell you how I dealt with the various build problems with the cages.

Walkway construction, and added kit bashing.
I know they are awful, but with a little work and a few old tank kits to rob from they will look much better.
Additionally, attaching the walkways to the inner cages with hidden screws. This will look great.

Walkway shelves. As above.

Here we have but a few to consider.
If you really want to build this kit (and I know some of you want to) with the pending release of DX's beak you know it is your destiny!

More soon, but if you feel you want to ask any questions with regard to your CURRENT AB build, ask away! You have nothing to lose .

Jon :)


Here we are again!
I've been busy cleaning up the AB's spine framework and cages, in preparation for all the numerous stripes which encircle the framework which are going to be applied mostly by airbrush, with the remainder being coloured tapes. Remember I am working to the plan of how Eagle 1 looks today, so I certainly have my work cut out!
As many of you have seen and read previously, the AB as it stood was in a state of finished assembly, so I have had to strip off the sixteen right angled brass brackets which hold both cages to the spine. Each bracket is retained by two screws, one screw through the spine with a washer and nut on the other end, and one self tapped into the white metal cage frame. All of the brass brackets were matched to fit (drilled in situ), so a careful note has been made of their exact locations so they can be reinstated in their correct positions. Point of note here is, try and build your model so you can strip it back down later on if you need to. This is a blessing, as you never know when or why you will need to get to some components for refurbish or repair later on! Wouldn't it be a shame if whoever needed to do this aborted the repair or refurbish work and left YOUR model to show the signs of decay for the sake of not having to break it apart.
I have to say I know this has been a long build, but I felt a bit like David Sisson during this strip down, as I had to actually clean away all the accumulated dust, grime, and light mould (yikes!) in order to return the now accessable details to their former glory. Although I hasten to add, David had a LOT harder task than this as can be seen in his truly excellent Eagle 1 restoration article, featured on his web site - check it out!
All of the old coloured tapes which I applied to the frames have now been removed, followed by a light solvent wipe to remove the sticky adhesive residue left by the now absent tape.
Some rubbing down then took place, to remove and feather back any damaged areas left by the brass brackets (these are screwed tight!) and a degreasing and dusting with primer (from a rattle can) followed.
Finally a dusting with Ford Diamond White (from a rattle can) followed by another dusting with that SUPERB (I love this stuff!) Microflat varnish applied by airbrush. What I have left is a very satisfying white spine devoid of any stripes, but looking brand new!
The walkway cages will receive less attention than the spine, as they already look nice and weathered. I will however touch up any areas now I have the chance, in readiness for the stripe work/grey panels which they are to receive. Pictures to follow, stay tuned! :)

Now, as promised I'll try to tackle some of the problems you fellow AB owners have had to deal with, or are trying to overcome in order for the box flaps of the model to stay open for more than five minutes in total!
Yes, you've guessed it... Air bubbles :hand: !
Talk about a built in immune system, air bubbles tend to stop kits being built! They are a HUGE disappointment after opening the box, as just after paying your hard earned money for this model, not only do you have to build the thing (and that's not easy!), you are faced with having to fill the air bubbles first! It's not as if you can switch manufacturers for the subject as you would a Spitfire or F-16C General Dynamics in 1:32 scale! You are stumped, as correct me if I'm wrong, there is no other choice of 44" Eagle! (Other than scratch building one - respect due)
My mental approach to air bubbles in the AB Eagle, was ZERO TOLERANCE. Let the finished photographs of my Eagle act as testament, and exhort you to carry on reading here - you too can handle this!
Air bubbles once filled, IF done properly, will not return. They don't grow back like a troublesome toenail. Fill a bubble and it's gone! Fill lots of them at once and they've ALL gone! Then you can start building.
Below I feature a passage I wrote a little while ago on filling, so give it a go and see what you think...
I found that first washing the components in white spirit, and then rinsing with cellulose thinners removes all the release agent used in the resin moulding process and leaves a super clean surface ready for filling and priming. A word of warning though, cellulose thinners will munch and eat anything styrene so leave out the cellulose part if any styrene is present.
Now to your air bubble problem, I must have spent literally hundreds of hours dealing with these blighters and found myself reverting back to the same method time and again.
Get yourself a small artists pallet knife from your local art shop (remember paint with Nancy Kominsky?) next some P38 car filler (or equivalent) and a suitable pallet (cardboard or a strip of stainless steel is what I use)
Plonk a small amount (less than half a teaspoon) of P38 on the pallet, then squeeze about half a centimeter of the red hardener some distance away.
Using your pallet knife mix small amounts of filler at a time, elsewhere on the pallet, wiping the pallet knife clean as you go.
The key here is technique, using the pallet knife you can sculpt corners and fine detail back in the moulding - the more you do, the quicker and better at it you will become. You will learn rapidly and become good at it if you are patient!
You can also cover larger areas of porosity with your knife, by licking over the surface with P38 whilst applying an angle with your knife edge.
When dry, cleanup will be minimal, I find using 400 paper is just right for removing the surface of filler and returning the resin surface, whilst the P38 resides in the air bubbles beneath.
Last week I filled hundreds of minute bubbles within the corrugations either side of the doors on the big passenger pod in less than an hour!
I simply, completely filled small areas of the currugations at a time - flush with P38, then quickly scraped out the surplus P38 from within the corrugations by angling the pallet knife, one final flat edge scrape over the top and it was done!
A word about mixing P38 though, stay lean with the hardener when doing this, as you will find your mix will go off too quickly.
Your filler will of course harden quickly enough anyway, so in one good session of bubble filling you will probably make many (as much as 10-15) small mixes of filler up.
So key points are - wipe your knife clean as you go (important), make small mixes at a time (avoid filler wastage), and learn to use many pallet knife 'angles' so make the knife work for you (saves cleanup when dry).
Lastly, what resin is left over, simply scrape back into the tin for another day, whilst disposing of any unused hardener carefully, or ideally using it all in the final mix by saving the biggest air bubble til last!
Be patient, and stick with it, and you will become a master filler!

I found that with my AB Eagle, by the time you have spent holding the pieces and rolling them about in your hands swearing about the air bubbles, you could have got your filler kit out and filled them anyway!
Identify what's to be filled, out with the tools, get filling, then it's done!

So get building! :whip: :builder:

Yes it may take a while! :eek:ld:

At times it will be taxing! :nutter:

You may have some low points! :cry: :fume:

And some high! :w00t:

But it will become a love affair! :wub:

Much will be learned! :smart:

And the results will be worth it! 8) :smug: :dance:

More soon

Jon ;)


Quick update, I've had a break from working on the eagle as I cut my finger at work (and I'm one of the careful ones!), so I thought I would let this heal. Additionally, after several months of hard graft I thought I deserved a rest.
Anyway good news is, last night I dusted off my tool box and it was out with the filler, airbrush and primer, and work continued!
I guess I'm on the last stages of completing the model as it's the application of all those stripes on the spine and cages, which are all in pieces at the moment to allow some slight restoration work, and access for the stripe masking/application.
Rest of the big hardware is actually packed away for safety whilst this goes on.
Will post some more text and pictures soon.



Well here we are again sports fans ;) I guess it's time for another progress report, along with some more shots to tickle your fancy.
If I may commander, here follows a long overdue update on the 44" AB:-

As I stated earlier on, I removed all the stripes I had done on the framework of the Eagle with a view to replacing them with those similar to the beautiful Eagle 1 as it looks today. (Stripes so far are all applied by airbrush).
This work has started, and can be viewed on the front framework shown here, in conjunction with the beak assembly. Note that the beak fixing bolts are not in situ...

This study shows the interesting contours of the beak - a beautiful moulding by our very own DX. (Note brass spacers attached to the AB white metal frame moulding at each joining piece)...

Frame stripe detail. Note countersunk screw holes which conseal the screwheads used for assembly...

Beak is gently removed and the crew is revealed from within...

Truly happy in their work...

View underneath. Note crew attachment method. Diving boards as I call them are made from brass, which will withstand a good bash...

Finally, a view inside the beak, mostly matt black...

More shortly :)


Now for a study of the intersesting cage assemblies of which there are two, but I will focus on the rear cage for the purposes of this photo study.

The subject of much detail, and indeed work, these complex structures draw the eye nearer which I feel is one of the great things about the Eagle. You can gaze at them for hours! :shock:

This plan view shows the engine bell gas pipe ducting, which travels through the walkway - top to bottom...

Pod side door detail. Note subtle panel work, gently done. Walkway block is held in place from underneath using screws through the cross members of the bottom framework. Once screwed down, countersunk screw heads are filled with filler, contoured to the shape of the frame and painted...

Underside view of the walkway. Note Engine bell gas pipe duct exits, next to the engine bell screw fixing holes...

A very satisfying addition/modification are the box structures I fabricated which surround the leg pod guide angles as they travel on their way through the inside of the walkway blocks. Featured both sides, they do away with the once gaping hole surround, as well as act as additional support. Material used was plastic box section..
Seen here, is the view through the block sans leg pods!

Finally, the front cage assembly with masking work initiated for the application (by airbrush) of the grey panels and stripes. (Tape is the fantastic Tamiya brand)...

More soon ;)


To finish off this update, I feature some Beak detail shots...

Front study...

Moving up...

Note the superb DX technical decals employed...

Note the subtle application of extra detail using draftsman's pen lines, applied and gently scratched with a scalpal blade to achieve crisp corners to their shape makeup. Shown also, is the importance of good sharp corners on the beak black anti-glare panels. Again, thanks to the Tamiya brand of masking tape...

Time to mention the AB spine, having been recently stripped of the previous unsatisfactory coloured tapes, it has been refurbished and awaits it's application of many coloured stripes. This work area, is unbelievably the final stage to completion of my AB Eagle. The soda can is shown for scale...

This final shot, I treasure, as it features two very famous models either side of mine. They need no introduction...

Phew, I'm off to give my camera a rest, and charge my airbrush with some more grey paint, for more stripe application.
Will post more results of this work soon, but any more enquiries should be made by viewing:-


More soon



Let's talk gas!

Earlier on in this thread, I posted a shot of a test fire demo of the jet system in the pod base. A few people have asked me to explain the workings of this, so at last, here are the details.
I'm sorry I have taken so long to post this bit! :)

Here we have the stock AB passenger pod. Detailing is complete.
What lurks within?

Here is the answer. A cradle for holding two small airbrush propellant cans...

Holes are visible in each corner for the gas pipes and fixing screws...

A close up of the cradle assembly. Note the different height formers to provide tilt for the cans, when in situ. Also, the cradle has a central strengthening piece (unlike the original Eagle 1) which I added. Finish is stock grey primer, similarly pod internal colour is stock white primer...

Here are the works, nothing more than airbrush pipes plumbed into four feed tubes, from each can. The other can acts as a spare supply of gas, or will alternatively feed the walkway engine bells, in unison with the operational pod engine bells...

Below, the feed tubes poke through awaiting the engine bells...

Which are then assembled thus. Note the white spacer which conceals the screwthread from view when assembled...

The jet housed in the engine bell, is from a discarded ink jet printer ink system. Inserted within that is a 1mm tube which I found after experimentation, is the ideal size for the best results. Note method of fixing, which although is simplistic, does the job...

View inside the bell. Note that the jet is not central for obvious reasons...

Engine bell is finally screwed firmly down...

Whilst we focus on the pod, we'll observe some of the underside details before we move on. Note that weathering, which has been done to taste, will always remain subjective...

Moulded details, all began life as a resin mix, poured into play doh moulds! Note the very satisfying weathering shown here, to good effect...

Foot pad linkage detail...

Note the foot pad retaining method, which is further strengthened by a Jeans trousers button ring surround...

Next, we'll study the cage/walkway gas ducting system.

More shortly.



Here we can focus on the gas supply to the front and rear cage assemblies.

Additionally, both front and back cage assemblies can be fed gas from the passenger pod gas supply unit. Holes for the gas feed tubes can be seen here, two in total...

Exit holes underneath shown thus...

A smaller type of white pipe, also from an Ink jet printer is employed not only due to it's colour, but also as it has a smaller outside diameter.
Coincidentally, walkway detailing allows a clear route for the pipe on it's journey to the gas feed entrance hole...

Once fed through, the feed tube awaits it's associated engine bell...

Assembled as shown. Again, the white plastic tube spacer, conceals the fixing screw thread from view...

Finally the Engine bell is firmly screwed down home...

Operation of the pod engine bells for demonstration purposes, is at this moment done manually.
Further modifications could be made to install solenoid actuation, just as Eagle 1 used.
For my model, demonstrations are made by removing the pod base first, then turning the valve to on!
Ideally, both sets of engine bells could be supplied gas from outside the model altogether, after drilling some holes. But I don't like the sound of that at all! :?

Remember that airbrush propellant should NOT be inhaled, or used near a naked flame, otherwise BOOOM!
Ideally, I give my demonstrations in the garden where possible.
Be safe!

Incidentally, I promised I would reveal how the AB leg pod foot pad assemblies were held in place at both ends of the suspension spring.

Voila. A foot pad, notably lighter in colour than previously seen as I had them too dark. The screw at the top shown here is self explanatory.
The spring has been carefully bent around it's shaft to hold it in situ.
Note that the elbow joint is brass, as are the entire suite on this model...

Assembly of the spring into the leg pod is done by a cleverly placed screwdriver shown thus...

Finally the foot pad assembly is simply screwed home, and the unit is captured even before connecting the elbow joint.


How do they do that?



Only smarties have the answer! ;)

That small brass construct resides in situ, hidden away with the foot pad attachment screw holding it within the spring guide tube.
There is a single stud, which interacts with the helicoil of the spring when it is turned, thus grabbing it and pulling it home, joining the two units as one.
Once assembled, the elbow joint of the foot pad is attached to the 'H' framework of the leg pod and assembly is complete.
When the Eagle lifts off, the foot drops the required amount of spring decompression, but no more so to pull on the elbow assembly and snap something.


To finish off this hectic spate of AB updates, I picture the small leg pod attitude thrusters with some detail added...

As I keep mentioning, added detail draws the eye nearer, so two sleeves of brass and one of aluminium inserted one within the other gives you something to 'squint' at don't you think?

"Julie, where's my glasses?"

More soon.



Thanks everyone. :roll:

Here's some more!

In this post we'll try and address some of the issues that have perhaps been bothering other AB owners, so much that, the unmade model stays in the box. :(
Additionally, we'll continue our photo study for anyone else who wants to join in.

Various items are wrong in the AB package, so we'll let the pictures do the talking, accompanied by a short script detailing the resolve.
Here we go...

Passenger pod feet. The linkage assembly works out wrong on the kit version, so inserting a new bracket made from brass box section within the stem corrects this. Two views follow...

The elbow joint is from brass again, but I chose to use box section all through on the model, rather than plastic channel. The pictures of the foot pad joint illustrate this accordingly. Note the cut out on the inner face to allow insertion when the joint shuts, and the small plastic tube used to conceal any screwthread which is visible...

And in the closed position...

Another very disappointing feature, this time on the large leg pod mouldings, are the location arms which on my kit were not at right angles to the side of the leg pod! :worry:
To correct this, using a razor saw I cut through the stem close to the side of the leg pod from above, until about 3mm of resin remained beneath the saw. Next I snapped the stem off in a downwards motion removing it altogether. After scratching the mating surfaces to provide a key for the following application of glue, I tacked the stem back on using super glue and a set square, making sure everything lined up. When satisfied, the rest of the join was flooded with glue as required.
Now the stem was in need of strengthening, so I managed to locate some lengths of steel rod from an office 'in/out' tray stack. They were placed one in each corner, to stack the plastic trays - perfect! :)
Using a long drill piece of the correct diameter (to provide a tight fit for the steel rod), and a variable speed DIY drill, I slowly drilled centrally down the full length of the leg pod arm, making sure I went at least 15-20mm into the pod body.
Finally, the steel rod was driven fully home into the hole.
To finish, numerous smaller lengths of brass rod was used to pin the leg pod arm at the base, to prevent the unit from twisting. This needs to be STRONG! I'll leave you to decide for yourself where to place these strengthening pieces, but it's better to overdo it than not.
Here we view the result. Now you've got to do the other three leg pods!

Additionally a small nut was glued flush in a counterbored recess, strategically placed...

To accomodate on assembly, a walkway shelf shown thus...

Hence eradicating the need to glue them in situ, and sticking to the availability of the strip down facility, should it be needed.
Whilst we are here, we can view the 'H' frame. Still from resin, but pinned throughout with brass rod. Note squashed brass tube insertion into slots in the frame as per Eagle 1...

Side on view. Note radius, and relief chamfer on the fixing bracket to allow free movement of the oleo strut when assembled...

A quick look at some leg pod panelling...

Note the different shades of grey used along with those absolutely superb technical decals by the master himself -DX!

Here we view some of the interesting geometrical shapes featured on the Eagle...

Now to the subject of extra detailing, which although lightly done, has been employed in this build. Take the walkway shelves. With a little imagination, some brass rod and a spares box, one does not have to try too hard to see early results...

And after locating an old tank kit, the walkway blocks can yield results too. Again lightly done...

And from another angle...

Remembering to weather accordingly, and to taste, but not to overdo things...

Quick shot of an epoxy resin join on top of the cage...

And a soldered joint on the bottom...

Lastly, anybody spot the leg pod orientation decals? - 'FL' (Front Left)
I've used this all along in the build. See under the walkway shelves...

And in the passenger pod pointing forwards...

You may not be the only person who will build your Eagle!
:eek:ld: "Can't lift those leg pods no more!"

Lets hope this and many other of our models feature on the Antiques Roadshow in a hundred years or so!


More posts soon.

Hope to contribute with my 44 AB sooner or later too:

44 AB with 88” part and James Small LP

Closer look LP with roof detail (just an idea to see how it would look– death star tiles from SSM )

A modification with fully milled acrylic pods (= no distorsions like the fully cast AB pods). Seeing your AB pics, my AB castings are not that good. Will have to do a lot of work on the side pods (underside).

Labpod factory: two James Small pods and one wood by scratch (is under modification - profiles at the base were not correct, you call that lerning by doing :D )

Shelf parts experiment (spine booster parts 22/23" James Small Gardena parts.

Your 44 AB beauty is motivating me to go on with mine. Will also have to redo partially the spine frame. It’s not exact and not made like I would do it. Did You make a new one for yours? Yours looks perfect.


Well here we are again sports fans, seems ages, but I think the last phase of coloured stripe application to the cage assemblies and spine was a bit tricky so I took my time.
To start with, as I had many coloured photographs of Eagle 1 as she is today, I decided that I needed all the reference material in one place showing all the spine stripe detail.
To work quickly I needed a single detailed drawing to work from, as opposed to lots of different pictures from my reference library.
After hours of measurements and calculations working from the photographs, enough data was gathered and drawing work began on a full scale plan view of the Eagle spine showing all stripe detail with measurement references.
Shown thus:-

And just as I thought, work progressed speedily, well as fast as my masking tape and ruler would carry me.
Shown is the completed spine looking resplendent with it's various coloured bands.

Front detail shows the interesting contrast of the bands.

And the rear...

Note that none of these stripes are tape, they have all been masked with that fantastic Tamiya masking tape stuff, and gently airbrushed!

I found that with my previous experimentation using various tapes, it proved a little frustrating as I was always sticking the edges of the tape back down as it lifted off the frame.
Airbrushing the bands resolved many issues, thickness, colour (not searching car shop after car shop), and observing good paint practice, proved to be a permanent application.
This picture shows a small 1.5mm yellow band...

Two more spine views follow...

Here is a pleasing study...


Now to the cage assemblies, pictured together with the front framework attachment.
All shading and panel work is complete, and the final coat of Microflat varnish has been applied...

Closer view...

Shading is subtle, but effective...


Things are now moving closer to completion!
I decided to strip and repaint the sixteen straps which hold the spine to the cage assemblies. Pictured here, they now have a fresh coat of paint and await removal one by one when the final spine to cage assembly work begins...

When the assembly work is complete, I'll survey the Eagle as a complete unit and see what touch up work is needed, or what little extra detailing can be added here and there.


Back to the workshop then!

More soon.



Good question.

To keep masking and overspray to a minimum, trick is to think where the overspray is going to end up. Look at all the possible deflection points on the model by simulating the movements with the airbrush in your hand. Next line all those points with masking tape so the overspray will end up on the tape and not the model.
Finally it's all about airbrush control... trigger, air pressure and aim.

With practice you'll find you can spray (as opposed to brush paint) the smallest areas without disaster.



Hi again,

Over the weekend I can report that the spine and both cages were assembled, and no problems were encountered.
A difficult task as there isn't much room for the insertion of each small washer and nut. (Note the employment of those curved tweezers to facilitate easier location).
Using a small brush, a blob of loctite nut fix was applied before the nut was screwed home.
This method of fixing I chose, as it allows the assembly to be stripped for refurbishment, modification, or repair in the future.
(Nuts and washers are all stainless steel)

More soon



Very good question Styrofoam_guy. :)

The original intention was to fill the lower frame strap fixing screw slots with a little car filler and finish smooth, but when the assembly took place I found that from only a short distance they do become very difficult to see. This option does however remain 'live'.

With regard to the upper main fixing screws which travel through the frame, years ago they were originally rivets on the studio 44" Eagle 1 (correct me if I'm wrong DX), so slot headed screws were a natural choice, plus the fact David Sissons has used similar screws on Eagle 1 as she is today.

Having said all that, I'm always changing parts on this model, my wife said that I must have made it at least twice! :-/

I tried the camera in my mouth but my tongue was not strong enough to press the button!


The spine to cage attachments points used either rivets or possibly nails. I found some copper armour rivets that seemed too perfect to be a coincidence but we know that the brass spine on Mk42's first model (which looks like it came from the second model originally) was reinforced with mild steel pins, possibly the shafts of nails with the heads removed. It is possible to get suitable nails of the right size for both jobs at almost any decent DIY store so it's a personal choice what to use. Both copper and mild steel solders easily.


Hi there,

Quick update. I've chosen to improve on the spine strap upper and lower fixing scews which were visible.
I removed the upper slot headed screws, and soldered up the slots. Now the screw heads have been finished smooth, they have a lovely rivet/nail head appearance which looks much better.
To get round the problem of holding the screw now the screwdriver slot has gone, I've managed to get hold of a long screwdriver socket tool which passes right through the frame and tightens the small nut whilst holding only slight finger pressure on the screw head the other side.
The lower brass screws, I'm going to fill with a lick of car filler to hide from view. The car filler can be dug out with a sharp point should I ever need to remove the screws at a later date.

Whilst this was being done, I added the two missing cross frame tubes to the spine underside front and back which were missing on the AB spine. (AB'ers note!)

This means of course that all the spine fixing straps have to be stripped of paint again, and localized areas refurbished, as only slight paint damage on stripping the assemblies will not be tolerated.

My wife was in a state of disbelief when she saw me stripping the big Eagle again!

Will post pictures soon.



Pipe talk!

Ready for more pictures? I've had my camera out! :pics:

Here are some more modifications to the AB Eagle, since it was recently taken apart for 'tweaking' here and there.
Referring to the excellent Chris Trice/Daniel Prud'Homme Eagle 1 CAD drawings, the fore and aft walkways enclosed within each cage framework assemblies, are linked with three tubes which in reality would act as conduits, channelling electronic cables, pipes and other crucial connections.
It is obvious that in aircraft, there need to be large looms of wires and pipes leading from the cockpit to other extremities of the aircraft to carry control inputs initiated by the pilot.
Eagle 1 is no exception! :thumbup:
Reading the drawings, three linked tubes, two of which plug into a kit bashed tank component on the left side of the front walkway, (the third tube destination is hidden) then travel rearwards through the spine, resting on the lower cross bars, ending up at the rear of the eagle.
Seeing this, I just had to recreate this detail, so off I went to purchase some brass tube.
After a few measurements and notes were made, out came the soldering iron and I got to work.
The AB Eagle walkways are of course, different from the Eagle plans, so a survey of the detailing on the AB walkway was carried out, with a view to plug in the pipes somewhere!
Here is the resultant position in one of the small domes shown thus...

Note that the hole on the top of the walkway is for the gas pipe which leads to the engine bell below. The hole in the dome once drilled, was sleeved with brass tube for strength, allowing the pipe assembly to be plugged (and not glued) in place.
Here is the completed pipe assembly...

This small assembly is made up of quite a few small pieces, all shaped, assembled and soldered in one go. There is actually three pipes in total here, the third cleverly hidden, but present all the same...

After careful measurement and calculations, a perfect docking of walkway and conduit was allowed, and the resulting conduit tubing is perfectly positioned ready to sit on the lower cross bars of the spine when all is assembled...

The tubing then heads rearwards...

The end of the tubing has right angled pieces (which swivel for adjustment), which slope down and touch the top of the rear walkway, and give the impression that they are plugging in!

Meanwhile, the AB spine now wears it's once missing lower cross pieces which were omitted by AB!...

I think I'm ready for a build again, so more pictures soon...stay tuned!



Thank you!

Well I assembled everything (again) this afternoon and here are the results.
Note the inclusion of the piping, the extra cross beams in the spine AB managed to omit, and the spine strap screws which now have their slots soldered up.
I present the front cage...

Which now has the piping therein.(Note how it sits beautifully on the cross beam)..

Clearly illustrated here...

Some more studies...

And finally (Note the minimum gap between the beam ahead, and that the right hand pipe is slightly raised ready to be concealed snugly between the other two)...

Here shows the piping at the halfway point to it's destination...

Now to the rear cage assembly shown thus...

And closer...

This shot shows how I have finished the pipes to give the illusion that they are plugging into the rear walkway...

Finally those upper screws, which in my opinion look much better now they have had their slots soldered up and finished smooth. Remember the lower screws will be filled and smoothed over at the finishing stages of the build...

Stay tuned folks! :thumbup:


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