Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • We have updated the Terms and Conditions, you will be prompted to read and agree to these next time you are active on the forum.
SPONSORED BY

AB 22" Eagle questions

Amongst my other Eagle kits I have an AB Models 22" Eagle kit that I paid a reasonable price for. I keep on picking it up and having a go at cleaning up the spine but it has THE most massive flash you have ever seen in the white metal castings. I am talking almost solid white metal between the frames and huge rough cut casting stubs.

The conventional wisdom is that the spine and cages on the AB kit should be chucked and used as patterns for brass replacements but you so seldom see the kit actually built it would be nice to build it "from the box" as it would.

The metal castings are bad with lots of flaws and short shots, so what is a good material to fill defects in a white metal frame?

Are the resin parts like the beak, shoulder pods and other bits close to accurate, given that it is a studio accurate 22" rather than a close enough 23"?

Are the turned metal bells provided in the kit accurate in themselves?

I would like to have this model on my shelf one day, but can it be done using what comes in the box or should I start off by brassing it up?

Cheers

Tony
 

steve36uk

Alphans
I had one but in the end i've just kept the aluminium parts and the shoulder pods, feet and beak tho even that needs replacement really.

The whitemetal used in the spine is very poor as well,not far removed from low melt solder really-you can fill the gaps with low melt using a low wattage or temp controlled iron.

Try and get a set of the Trice/Prudhomme plans-drawn to 22" so ideal for comparing the AB parts to reality!!!!!
 

rockwellcm

Alphans
Get the plans,thats good advice,i do you wont regret it

i would avoid the white metal,and build it in brass,the white metal will sag over time,my thunderbird 1 did

a quick question about the beak,i see from close inspection it looks like its been cast from an original(you can see the decal) so why is it inaccurate?
 
Thanks guys, a set of the plans is on the list of things I need, especially as I have one of Chris's 44" nose cones and would like to do a 44" one day.

I am well aware of how shoddy the spine is, but as I said initially the fact that relatively few of the AB kits get built drives me to want to use as much of the kit as possible.

I was not saying the beak in the kit IS innacurate, I was asking how accurate it is. I was not aware that it was cast off an original.

Rob, as allways the offer of help is appreciated.:)

Cheers

Tony
 
E

Eagle-1

Guest
Me Steve?

No sir. Just the ones that come with the AB kit itself.

I've never heard the CM was cast off an original either? I've never heard that before. Seems just a bit small compared to the rest of the Eagle for that to be true?

Anybody know anything more about this?

You're welcome Spellbinder. Anytime.

Rob.
 
E

Eagle-1

Guest
Spellbinder,

I always solder all the metal parts of an AB 22". I clean the entire kit making sure I keep all the shavings and cut-off's and then I melt them down, draw them up into a glass pipette and then remove the pipette leaving real white metal rods I can then use as solder for all the welds. That way, all the metals are of the same material and it makes any sanding and filing of the soldered joints the same consistency as the surrounding metal. Soldering all the joins makes one of these kits very strong.

None of the several I have built, many years ago now, have ever sagged.

I also pin all the sections so that the different components are removable and I make the landing gear function as well, even on the passenger pod.

Rob.
 
Top