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Dalek Invasion of Earth 2009

Wookiee

Alphans
To show my ignorance of Dr Who, I wasn't aware that Daleks came in so many colours. This is all great work on people's parts. Weaponsmith, how's it going with your builds BTW. Yarvelling masking drives me nuts, and the tension as one peels the stuff off to see the results isn't always rewarded.

The Daleks eye arm discs changes from DR to DR for tv one.
Not the colours, but the S.McCoy, white and Gold one's, are changes on the dome lights and some more to but I can't think of them at this time?
 

yarvelling

Alphans
It was a completely new build for the McCoy era Imperials (white/gold): the dome lights were new, the neck-bin was new, the entire 'shoulder' section and arm/gun-box detail was new, the arm-sucker was new, the main skirt section was narrower and slighty taller, and even the base was new! It's a shame we only ever saw this variant in the one story; I'd have liked to see it again!

Steve.
 
Yes, even the skirt panels are different. If you compare the angle of the rearmost panel, the white Daleks are more vertical with that last panel than the others.

Anyway, the reason I wanted to post on this thread was that it has now been 5 days since I poured my first ever mould. I was going to post this reply in the thread I originally started talking about making moulds, but that thread is now closed, and the mould is of Dalek bits, so here goes. Hope those of you that have not done this before are encouraged, and those of you with more experience bear with me, I'm still learning! :lol:





My moulding preparation work. A plastic disposable cup, my master and mould box, mould release, silicone, lemon tea granules instead of rice, and a couple of small :oops: vibrators :oops:.



The completed mould box, with the master in the bottom, was filled with the lemon tea granules. Many people use rice, but I used what I had to hand. The granules are then poured into the plastic cup to give a level so you know how much Silicone you need.



The mould box was cleaned up, a stage probably not required if you use rice to find the volume of your mould, and a thin coat of a release agent made from Vaseline and White Spirit was painted around the outside, and over the masters.



As I wanted to make sure that I had no tiresome air bubbles in the mould leaving resin spheres on the surface of my mouldings, I taped a couple of cheap, small :oops: vibrators to the outside of my mould.



I placed my plastic cup, marked for level, on a small set of kitchen scales and reset the reading to zero. I poured in my Silicone to the mark I had made and weighed the silicone this took



After pouring the silicone carefully from a single spot to minimise bubbles, I turned on the 2 vibrators to ensure any trapped air moved away from the mould surface and left them for an hour. After the hour was up, I switched off the :oops: vibrators to preserve the batteries and left it for a further three hours, after which I removed the tape and vibrators and stored for the 5 days suggested on the silicone.



5 days after pouring the Silicone, I removed the mould box and my master to reveal a nice little 4 cavity single-half mould for my Dalek 'ears. Next step is to cast them in clear resin, possibly with some colour in it. Then on to my first double half mould for the plunger, and some re-mastered GW wheels and things.

So there you are. Pictures of the first castings when they are done, I start that tomorrow afternoon, using Games Workshop's "Water Effects" single part clear resin and some of their washes for colour. I have 2 bottles already and want to try it out. If it fails I already have some proper 2 part clear resin to do them with. If they come out OK, I may offer to make replacements for anyone who needs them, as my mould should be OK for more than I need.

And the hardest part of all that?

Going into a "Private" shop and asking for 2 of their smallest vibrators whilst holding a bag of Lego, Plasticine, and Vaseline! :oops::oops:
 

TonyB

Forum Supporter
A nice basic tutorial for those of us with little to no knowledge of mold creation and casting techniques, thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks for that Tony, you're too kind. However, I have realised I said nothing about how I made the master I was using.

This was simplicity itself however. I took a set of TV and a set of movie Dalek 'ears' and secured them to a square of plasticard with liquid poly so that there was a reasonable distance between them. I chose the layout (Movie, TV, Movie, TV going clockwise) as it seemed the best way to go. With something this small it probably didn't make the slightest difference, but what the heck!

I made the square into a box by gluing sides to it so that the ears were glued onto the outside of the 'box' and filled the inside with plasticine. This was then placed on a thick sheet of plasticine that fit just inside the box I had made. It was at this point that I realised I had not put a rake angle on the plasticard box, so I added one out of plasticine. This ensures that the mould comes off easily by making the master taper somewhat. Once this was done, and the mould made, I could decide if I need to make a 2-part mould or just leave it as a single part.

The casting of the silicone so that the parts to be cast are raised like this means that I did not have to worry about locator pins as the whole mould is a single locator pin in itself. For larger moulds I will have to either use both techniques or just pins, depending on the size, shape, and possibility of doing a simple single sided mould.
 

Wookiee

Alphans
And the hardest part of all that?

Going into a "Private" shop and asking for 2 of their smallest vibrators whilst holding a bag of Lego, Plasticine, and Vaseline! :oops::oops:

Nice one Weaponsmith. but the Private" shop! what next the red light zone of Japan?
joke
 
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And I have decided against using the GW "Water Effects" as it is a self-curing resin and therefore can only be used in layers of 2-3mm. You can build up multiple layers, but each must be left for 24 hours to cure before you pour the next layer, and if I am making coloured castings that increases the chance of getting a miss-match in the colour. I still intend to see how it goes making some red lights as both the film Supremes had red film style lights. I may try and make a couple of clear TV lights at the same time, but it might end up with some red ones instead.
 

Wookiee

Alphans
And I have decided against using the GW "Water Effects" as it is a self-curing resin and therefore can only be used in layers of 2-3mm. You can build up multiple layers, but each must be left for 24 hours to cure before you pour the next layer, and if I am making coloured castings that increases the chance of getting a miss-match in the colour. I still intend to see how it goes making some red lights as both the film Supremes had red film style lights. I may try and make a couple of clear TV lights at the same time, but it might end up with some red ones instead.

Weaponsmith; what GW Water Effects?
THe resin you are casting is it one you got from Cararthem craft shop or came from some model shop locally to you?
Are you coluoring the resin with clear colours like Tamiya?
 

Wookiee

Alphans
Help Gundam

Can you help me please with a problem I have with model Gundam seed freedom zgmf-x10a robot instruction sheets. Have lost the instruction for it?
The scale is 1/144.
 
Wookiee. GW is Games Workshop. As I explained earlier, "Water Effects" is their single part clear casting resin. As it is a single part resin, however, it requires air to go off, so the thicker the layer, the longer it takes to cure and layers of more than 2-3 mm are not recommended. I was considering it because it is designed to be coloured by Games Workshop's own range of coloured washes. I ended up using the resin I bought when I was with you in Carmarthen, but still using the Games Workshop wash to try and tint it. If this does not work, and I don't think it will, I will try the Tamiya clear red instead.
 

Wookiee

Alphans
Wookiee. GW is Games Workshop. As I explained earlier, "Water Effects" is their single part clear casting resin. As it is a single part resin, however, it requires air to go off, so the thicker the layer, the longer it takes to cure and layers of more than 2-3 mm are not recommended. I was considering it because it is designed to be coloured by Games Workshop's own range of coloured washes. I ended up using the resin I bought when I was with you in Carmarthen, but still using the Games Workshop wash to try and tint it. If this does not work, and I don't think it will, I will try the Tamiya clear red instead.

Ok. I was being a sneg head again. (One of my blank times again):wtf::-/
I am hoping to post some photos of the Vinyl figures soon.
If you are into figure modeling have a look here
http://www.homemedia4u.com/catalog/product_info.php?currency=GBP&cPath=162_179&products_id=3734

I have some glass paint, Weaponsmith would you like to have 3 colours I got, to see if it would work with the resin you got?
Ps it clear, Red ,Yellow, blue?!
thay sat in the tool cubber for years.
 
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First castings

Well, that was an eye opener. I made my first castings from the mould at about 3PM yesterday, but did not dare take them out of the mould before 11PM. Either the Citadel (GW) wash I used as a colourant reduced the effectiveness of the hardener, or I did not put enough in. The mouldings were still somewhat soft when I removed them, and one started to tear as I tried to pull it out.

The colour is also not right, so I intend to try again with Tamiya clear red and more hardener this time. I may make up some clear for the TV style lights, as I cannot find any reference that says TV Supreme Daleks had red lights, pour those, then add the red and pour the movie style lights.

The good news is that the shape is perfect. Even down to the circular 'panel lines' in the TV lights - Mini sidelights originally, weren't they?



Still, I might be able to use these on my "Dalek Supreme" that I planned to do for a laugh when I have my black Daleks finished.
 

Wookiee

Alphans
Well, that was an eye opener. I made my first castings from the mould at about 3PM yesterday, but did not dare take them out of the mould before 11PM. Either the Citadel (GW) wash I used as a colourant reduced the effectiveness of the hardener, or I did not put enough in. The mouldings were still somewhat soft when I removed them, and one started to tear as I tried to pull it out.

The colour is also not right, so I intend to try again with Tamiya clear red and more hardener this time. I may make up some clear for the TV style lights, as I cannot find any reference that says TV Supreme Daleks had red lights, pour those, then add the red and pour the movie style lights.

The good news is that the shape is perfect. Even down to the circular 'panel lines' in the TV lights - Mini sidelights originally, weren't they?

...

Still, I might be able to use these on my "Dalek Supreme" that I planned to do for a laugh when I have my black Daleks finished.

Why not cast them in clear resin and paint them with Tamiya clear red like I have with the Sevans Daleks movie one's. the offer for the glass paint is still open. Ok:thumbup::thumbup:
 
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Casting them in clear is definitely what I am going to have to do. The Tamiya clear red is still retarding the cure. I used more hardener today, poured the TV lights, then added the clear red to what was left and poured the movie lights. Some of the red started to flow into the extra resin around the clear, so one may have a slight pinky tinge around the base.

Even so, I poured them around 11AM this morning and have just de-moulded them. The smell of styrene is worse than when I started, and is now giving me a headache. The movie lights look uncured where they were touching the mould surface, but they did not require to be pulled out with a dental probe this time, so they did not tear. The one TV light that has not been contaminated with the red seems completely hard. The other TV light I cannot see properly due to the layer of red over the base of it. I will see what they look like after I have sanded the base tomorrow.

tomorrow I will make clear ones and see what happens with that, airbrushing the tamiya clear over the movie lights after they have been moulded.

And Wookie, there is no need to copy my entire post, especially when yours is the first reply after it.
 

CR

Alphans
Just to chime in about replies & quotes, and this is info for all people who post here...
It might be best not to copy photos in the replies, to save on page space and load times. Just copy the relevant part of the quote you are responding to.
There are several threads throughout the forum where this applies, of course, and over time, some moderatorial editing will take care of that. (For example, I know Eagle has 'pruned' the sci-fi babe thread on occasion. But there may be exceptions to this suggestion, too, such as the 'funny captions' threads that specifically use photos to make their points. Just FYI.)

Carry on...
 
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Well, the Tamiya translucent red ended up looking more like orange, and the resin is flexible almost a fortnight later. However, the clear ones came out quite well. The TV lights just need a slight buff up with metallic T-cut to shine them up a bit. The movie versions, however, are a bit more problematic. As they have near enough a right angle at the bottom, I am still getting some air bubbles in them. This should not be a major problem as they do not seem to be on the surface of the moulding, and the majority of these components are going to be sprayed with Tamiya translucent red and varnished, this should hide the bubbles quite well. I will post again when I have finished a set, and hopefully I can spend some time this weekend working on finishing the Ressurrection Supreme and maybe working on the arms and shoulders of the TV Invasion Supreme.





The first pull from my mould of the Dalek lights. The two TV versions came out OK, but I had spotted a single bubble in one of the movie versions after cleaning some of my equipment. Going in to pull this bubble to the surface with a dental probe, I discovered that the resin had already started to gell, so the probe ruined the casting. These just need a little tlc with metallic T-cut to just finish the surface off properly. Any bubbles in the surface can be filled when I next pour a casting so that they end up slightly proud of the surface and lightly sanded back flat when cured. These areas will then be polished up again with the T-Cut.
 

Wookiee

Alphans
The offer

The offer still stand for the glass paint, Weaponsmith if you would like it?

There look Ok to me!!:thumbup:
 
So, today I have been working on the neck and head of the beast. Here is what I have done so far.


All three parts have been sprayed with Games Workshop Chaos Black from one of their rattlecans. The Bin has then been coated with a satin varnish ready for a brush coat of matt varnish before assembly. This will help differentiate it from the other parts which will just be sprayed with satin varnish to tie them up with the rest of the Dalek.


Assembled over a spare Neck Bin, and glued so that any glue over-run did not spoil a Bin I was going to use. The joins were filled using superfine (white) "Milliput" 2-part epoxy putty, and then left to dry. Before I touched them again, I wnet to take something from a shelf above them and pulled a box down on top of them - Crunch! Still useful for a damage conversion I have in mind though.


The replaced rings, made up to the same stage as the previous set, then the joins were sanded and the assembly given a coat of Games Workshop Chaos Black. Now waiting on a satin varnish coat for protection.


With the platforms for the 'ear' lights added, and sprayed black, waiting for satin varnish, and then having the resin lights and the completed eye stalk added (not started yet). I still think it looks like a German WW2 helmet from this angle.


I have added a ring of plasticard to the underside of the dome. This prevents the dome from tipping forward when it is rotated, a common problem with the kits, especially once the weight of the eye stalk is helping to pull it down at the front.


Just a quick shot of the parts placed on top of each other to give you an idea of the progress so far.
 
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