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Eagle 2 Leg Pod Kit

Captain Sci-Fi

Commander
Staff member
Hi Guys,

I had a frustrating day yesterday, an engineer was on site servicing my laser cutting machine so we had 5 hours down time. Apparently we had a faulty door switch which cuts off the laser tube when the machine is opened it's an important safety feature. Anyway I had two choices watch the engineer fiddling about and stressing over spares or crack on with another project I have had on the "to do" list for a couple of months. We would need a test file anyway so....

The brief:
A lightweight leg pod in flat pack form to make posting easy, with the minimum of parts and to be dimensionally correct to Eagle 2, cut in 2 mm styrene so no special glues required. Still a little work to do to form the leg opening but I wanted to prove the principle and it would give the laser a fair test for accuracy. CAD time 3 hours, cut time 15 mins, assembly time 30 secs.

Sorry the pictures are so dark, Black was all I had in stock at 2 mm thickness. I will re-cut and re-shoot so things are clearer later:

All parts slide together with pre-cut key-ways:


Three parts in place and already self supporting:


There are pre cut holes for the leg tube assembly:


Perfectly correct geometry for Eagle 2, all parts interlock with tabs I didn't even add any glue, obviously I will though.... :lol:


This forms the basis for the open structure, it's very strong, so strong in fact I can stand on it without it breaking and I am generous in my proportions. :D

I already have a set of Acrylic feet cut for these pods so just need to finalise the recesses and cladding panels and we can call this one done. :sweat:

I will work on the cladding panels after I have finished all the UFO kits in production at the moment.

Let me know what you think.

Cap'n
 

Propland

Chief Eagle Pilot
Lightweight and strong :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
Will the plating be bevelled to match to reduce filling, and would you provide the side mounting arm?
These Eagle 2 side pods with your Eagle 2 plating kit combined, I would definitively commit to some sets Cap'n!

1. Propland - (w/plating option)
2. Propland - (w/plating option)
3. Propland - (w/plating option)
4. Propland - (w/plating option)
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
 

Captain Sci-Fi

Commander
Staff member
On going project....

Hi Darren,

I will provide all that is required to build a complete pod, yes the mounting sprue too. You will be able to make front/back/left or right pods as needed. Some sanding and finishing work will be needed though, I have to say that as I haven't finished this kit as yet. I might be able to supply ready to use components as this kit evolves I am always finding better ways to do things. The acrylic foot will be ground to shape and will have the toe panels for the label details. I wanted to stay with styrene but this material fumes a lot when laser cut. All the parts will need to be washed to remove the residue prior to assembly.

The good news that styrene can be worked exactly as standard model kits, same adhesive, paints and trimming techniques. It is also cheaper to buy as a raw material so this kit should be within everyone's budget. Add one of Paul Gray's leg and suspension units and you'll really have something. :D

The other thing that occurred to me were the endless possibilities for cut away or see through sections. I know some modellers have wanted to do this and my kit is perfect for those kinds of diorama opportunities. Or how about a properly "Cartered" Eagle....

Cap'n
 
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Transporter

Alphans
Really great! :thumbup: If I only had known this three months ago, before I started my "light" SP construction...
But as we all know: many Eagloholics don't stop after building their first 44" Eagle...:O
 

Captain Sci-Fi

Commander
Staff member
Future Projects....

Really great! :thumbup: If I only had known this three months ago, before I started my "light" SP construction...
But as we all know: many Eagloholics don't stop after building their first 44" Eagle...:O

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the kind comments. :thumbup:

I am still learning from the excellent model makers here. With thought and a little trial and error it is possible to make almost anything. My aim is to design kits that give the result you are looking for right out of the box.

Cap'n
 

Propland

Chief Eagle Pilot
Cap'n, for the side pod corners both square and triangular, could you bevel the inside edges to match adjacent surfaces/flush? This would really assist the finishing ;) Cheers Darren
 

Captain Sci-Fi

Commander
Staff member
Sanding & Finishing details....

Cap'n, for the side pod corners both square and triangular, could you bevel the inside edges to match adjacent surfaces/flush? This would really assist the finishing ;) Cheers Darren

Hi Darren,

Short answer is no, not economically. But I can possibly cut a guide jig to accurately shape the edges. I am looking to keep the price as low as possible and it doesn't take long to sand a bevel on the edges. I actually could provide these pre-shaped but I would have to include my labour on top of the kit price. Are you planning an Eagle Factory or something? :lol:

Best regards.

Cap'n
 

LazyEagle

Alphans
You could probably make the outer skin panels a little larger so that there's an overlap. This allows the modeller to methodically glue each panel to skeletal plastic structure and then sand down the excess to create the desired sharp edges. The originals were covered with thin perspex sheeting on wooden cores and it looks like there was a sequence to sanding them down at the mating edges to produce the sharp and distincty unseamed edges. I suppose the thickness of the plastic you're using needs to be factored in when deciding how much to overlap needs to be considered. Obviously a little elbow grease will have to be invested in this suggested option and saves on the need for a jig and your time Bernie. It'll be a little more involved and any gaps or errors could be patched with filler.

Sanjay


Hi Darren,

Short answer is no, not economically. But I can possibly cut a guide jig to accurately shape the edges. I am looking to keep the price as low as possible and it doesn't take long to sand a bevel on the edges. I actually could provide these pre-shaped but I would have to include my labour on top of the kit price. Are you planning an Eagle Factory or something? :lol:

Best regards.

Cap'n
 

Captain Sci-Fi

Commander
Staff member
Taper sanding....

You could probably make the outer skin panels a little larger so that there's an overlap. This allows the modeller to methodically glue each panel to skeletal plastic structure and then sand down the excess to create the desired sharp edges. The originals were covered with thin perspex sheeting on wooden cores and it looks like there was a sequence to sanding them down at the mating edges to produce the sharp and distincty unseamed edges. I suppose the thickness of the plastic you're using needs to be factored in when deciding how much to overlap needs to be considered. Obviously a little elbow grease will have to be invested in this suggested option and saves on the need for a jig and your time Bernie. It'll be a little more involved and any gaps or errors could be patched with filler.
Sanjay

Hi Sanjay,

That's exactly how this kit has been designed and we are talking accuracy to 0.5 mm and that was to allow the glue capilliary action :D

Removing the 1 mm overhang of plastic to follow an established edge is really easy you can do in perfectly with an emery board to rough shape then follow up with a light sanding of 400 grit wet or dry all over in preparation for paint and detail panel placement.

A review kit is almost ready and I will let my kit tester enlighten you all on the details.

Thanks for the input Sanjay :thumbup:

Regards.

Cap'n
 

Captain Sci-Fi

Commander
Staff member
Carry on....

Hi Guys,

So I have picked this up where I left off now things are settled with the forum.

There are several design challenges to this that I need to resolve. I need to insert a reinforced box to handle the torque applied through the sprue at the walkway joint and still allow room for other components like the leg assembly. Everything has to be designed to produce a left or right handed pod from one kit just by swopping panels around.

I have gone back to the basic design and allowed for the sprue box within the structure and it is becoming a very complex little item. I will need a little more time to fully evolve the design to the point where I am totally happy with it.

Bear with me guys, I will crack this as my ambition is to build a very light weight Eagle.

Cap'n
 

nivektunk

Alphans
1. Propland - (w/plating option)
2. Propland - (w/plating option)
3. Propland - (w/plating option)
4. Propland - (w/plating option)
5.
6. Nivektunk - (w/plating option)
7.
8.
9.
10.

Me too please!
Cheers, Kevin
 

Captain Sci-Fi

Commander
Staff member
Eagle 2 leg pods....

Is this for a 44" Eagle?

Newbie: What is the difference from Eagle 1 on Eagle 2?

Hi Stormy,

Yes a 44" version.

The first Eagle leg pod's were rectangular whereas Eagle 2's are slightly squarer in plan view.

I made these diagrams to explain:

Dimensions for Eagle 1:



Dimensions for Eagle 2:



Just different enough that panels can't be changed from one to another. Hence the reason for the kit.

Cap'n
 
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1. Propland - (w/plating option)
2. Propland - (w/plating option)
3. Propland - (w/plating option)
4. Propland - (w/plating option)
5.
6. Gumdrop and Spider (without plating)
7. Gumdrop and Spider (without plating)
8.
9.
10.
 

nivektunk

Alphans
1. Propland - (w/plating option)
2. Propland - (w/plating option)
3. Propland - (w/plating option)
4. Propland - (w/plating option)
5. Areteecee
6. Nivektunk - (w/plating option)
7. Gumdrop and Spider (without plating)
8. Gumdrop and Spider (without plating)
9.
10.

Sorry Gumdrop and Spider, I had the 6th spot spoken for already:) You probably just missed my post.
Cheers, Kevin
 
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