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My Moebius Cylon Raider kit

badsimmonds

Alphans
After finishing my scratch build its back to a plastic kit and what a kit, after seeing it on a YouTube video I had to have one.
The finished model will be 17 inches wide and 13 inches long which according to the blurb on the back of the box makes it studio scale.
I have to admit I was never a fan of TOS of Battlestar and I never watched the reboot but I always loved the Cylon Raider.
Looking at the contents the moldings are very good and clean and the only cleaning I had to do was getting rid of the sprue connections.
The very first thing I did was put the rear engine vanes together, which only took a few minutes.
The model does come with a stand which is similar to the old small aircraft stands that Airfix supplied years ago but after trying it out I decided not to use it and will make my own.
 

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MangaMax

Alphans
Looking forward to this with interest - i've got the original from way back when and was aware of this one, but why should i need one if i've already got one, right?
But then saw one a couple of years back at a model show and was amazed at the size and quality.
Its on my wish list, and this build may well put it on my buy list
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Hi MangaMax
I'd recommend this kit as it goes together great and has a load of detail on it, I'm positive you would like it.
As I'm not going to use the provided stand I had to fit a block of wood inside which will hold the brass rod later on, the rest of the stand is made up from some wood sprayed matt black.
I was going to fit lights in this model but out of laziness I decided in the end not to. It would have looked great with flickering led's in the engines but I never switch on the lights on my other models so it seemed pointless but each his own. Having said all that Moebius does provide the engine exhaust parts with holes for lights and some cable grooves if you want to go down that path. With that decision out of the way progress speeded up and I sort of followed the instructions. Each piece fits perfectly with no problems so it doesn't take long to have a sizable model in front of you. The main body is in two parts and each side wing is in two parts.
I don't have a lot of photos of the build but I hope what I did take will give you enough info.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
I decided to smooth out the areas with some P38 filler where the side wings attach to the main body as it will be seen more than any other join.
There are a couple of lugs to help support and position the wings when fixing in place. I taped them in place so they wouldn't move while waiting for the glue to set which doesn't take too long.
I'm jumping the gun here as I didn't mention joining the two body sections. Again there are plenty of lugs around the model so you just push them together (with the addition of some glue) and you have a pretty good join.
I added some tape along the edges to completely compress the join together.
As I'm not adding lights the progress has speeded up as the model parts are generally quite big.
One of the photos shows the hole I drilled for my stand next to the slot for the supplied stand, its well hidden under the model. This rectangular section of the model is the only part that needs fixed to the underside, it also shows the level of detail and panel lines.
With the addition of the wings the model really looks the business and quite menacing.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
With the body and wings all attached I sprayed the entire model with Halfords grey primer as it was all I had at the time. I'm always amazed how a little bit of primer can make all the difference to the look.
However that's not the colour of the finished model which is various shades of light grey. To create some of the panels I masked off areas, different shapes etc as can be seen in the photos so I'll overspray the entire model peel off the masks and I should have some decent panel effects.
As usual I'll start on the underside so if things go wrong it won't be seen too much. For the first time I'll be using an airbrush for the main painting, usually I just use one for weathering etc. The paint I used was Vallejo grey surface primer which was a light grey compared to the Halfords spray.
It dries quite quickly so I was soon able to remove the masking and it seemed to work out alright, now for the top section.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Painting the panels on the top section was exactly the same as the underside.
I also re-masked off the model and airbrushed some other panels using a Vallejo Medium Sea Grey air paint. You can't really see these panels in the photos but they do show up as a slightly different grey panel.
The next stage are the black stripes on both sides of the model. The underside ones are easy as the surface is nice and flat where they go but the top side is covered in raised details so the masking tape has to go over them which usually causes problems for me. I used some Tamiya 6mm masking tape to create the edge with the help of a cocktail stick to push the tape into the edges of the raised sections. I spent ages on them making sure everything was ok.
I used some wider tape to protect the model and used an air brush with Vallejo flat black. These paints really do go on well and dry nice and smooth.
After leaving it to dry it came to the moment to find out if it had worked or I had made a complete mess. Unbelievably it had worked and no one was more surprised than myself. All I have to now is duplicate it on the other wing.
I must add when first masking I ended up with the mask back to front so take care. The instructions do include a shape to cut out to help you when masking.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
The front cockpit section I kept separate from the build as it would be easier for painting. I airbrushed it Vallejo flat black and once dry I hand painted the stripes which was a complete mess. So I resprayed and this time I cut some white self adhesive vinyl and stuck that on, its certainly neater and for me that's good enough.
Although the panel lines are prominent I decided to emphasize them a bit more by running a sharp pencil along all the lines and brushing off any excess lead.
Since I didn't have lights on this model I added a couple of amber points at the front where I believe there would be lights. I used a couple of pre-coloured map pins.
The last thing were the two laser cannons which are made up of two parts, unfortunately the join seam is noticeable so a bit of sanding is required to try and hide it though I'm not entirely satisfied with the result. Some builders replace the laser barrels with metal tubes but I didn't have any of a suitable size though I can see it would look a lot better.
On this model I decided to have laser blasts on the body surface as if the craft had been in a series of battles - which no doubt it would have. I used a cotton bud and some Humbrol black weathering powder then brushing off the excess always keeping them in the same direction. Some would do this and others wouldn't but I think it adds something.

That's it for this build, it didn't take long as I left out the lights. I would certainly recommend this kit even if like me you are not a fan of the series but like the design. The quality is high and the detail is impressive. Another great addition to the collection.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Here are some finished photos you might like. I just supported the model on my own stand and no fancy backgrounds I'm afraid.
I hope you enjoyed the build as much as I did building it. Till next time.
malcolm
 

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pjskeldon

Alphans
Most impressive and very inspiring.
I've just started my Cylon Raider and have lights, photo etch canopy and aftermarket cockpit and cannons to add. :think:

Some useful warnings here - especially about painting the black stripes.:thumbup:

Will press on, take some photos and start my own thread soon.

Phil
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Hi PJ
The additions you'll be adding to your raider will make it superb. As I said earlier in this post I had lights and switches for this kit but in the end I left them out.
I bought this kit as I liked the design and it was large - 17" across - which always appeals to me.
This kit has a lot to recommend it and is certainly well worth adding to anyone's collection.
Look forward to seeing your build.
Thanks
 

pjskeldon

Alphans
Indeed - I had the 70's Monogram (?) kit and that was impressive at the time. This is a step up.

I don't know if your kit suffered as much as mine from some sagging in the parts (easily covered with some cut sheet styrene) and some soft detail (the central ribbing between the engines, not easily rectified).

I'll take photos this weekend of where I've got to and the features I plan to add.

Was inspired by your choice of Vallejo grey primer. I'd used Rustoleum as the real primer, but aim to mask panels as you did and use the Vallejo to give the majority of the body colour.

The base is bothering me - can't seem to find anything suitable anywhere, so will probably get a friend of mine to make one. It needs to have some weight to hold the model, take a brass tube to support it and run the wires down, be hollow to hide the batteries and take a switch for the lighting.

Phil.
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Hi PJ

My kit did have some very slight 'sagging' at the front edge on both sides but it was so slight I decided not to rectify it, plus once painted I found it didn't show up much. I had no problems with the ribbing between the engines. This kit went together extremely well even though it had various curved parts fitting against other curved parts.
My base was just some scrap mdf glued together and sprayed matt black. The model was supported by a brass tube which would have plenty of room for any wires.
Before I decided not to have lights I was going to have the batteries & switches enclosed in the model.
I'm sure with your additions to this kit it will turn out superb.
 

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