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My Stingray Mk2 build

Fin's ain't what they used to be.....

....because they look even better this time round. She'll be one tough sub by the time you've finished, and I'm sure that all the hard work and fretting over things like (daren't mention it, but it rhymes with "fainting") will all be worth it.

Great pictures as always M, and I'm looking forward to the next phase!

Kindest regards

Patrick
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Hi Patrick
As things stand at the moment I still do not feel like fainting, the experience of the last build is still strong so it will be some time before it comes likely.
Meantime its the turn of the ratemaster surround. This comes all in one piece so its just a matter of cleaning up and sticking it on. When I stuck the hull sections together I made sure the rear hull area was the same 'thickness' of the ratemaster surround if that makes sense. Once fitted it was the usual filler and sanding to blend them together. Oh yes I forgot to say before I did all this I also drilled a hole to take the bolt which will hold the ratemaster in place. I fitted it in and checked that it would rotate ok and miss the sides.
Unfortunately I didn't take many photos of this stage.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Its getting very near the end of this build. To sort out the torpedo tubes I decided to use a couple of the tiger joe tank wheel hubs which were more or less just glued in place. For the rear side outlets I used some ultra cheap toy car wheels. Once sprayed they don't look too bad.
I also fitted the two fins on the rear section, usually I fill in any gaps between the joins but I decided to leave them to make it look like they could move.
If you look at the original model by Master Models it looks like they were supposed to move but I don't think they were shown on the tv.
 

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But they're perfect!

Hi M, trust you to come up with a cost-effective way of detailing. Great idea! The sub continues to look better and better. Thanks for the continuing developments.

Kindest regards

Patrick
 

KevinD

Alphans
I have used Tiger Joe wheel hubs in loads of things over the years (you don't need them for the mobile). Great build by the way.
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Thanks guys, I always try and find a simple way to make things and if I can cut down on the modelling so much the better.
However Its time for the parts I've been dreading hence leaving them to last.
The first is the clear star shaped thingy on the end of the ratemaster. It took three attempts to get something that was a tad better then nothing. I used 4mm acrylic sheet and with lots of very careful cutting and sanding I ended up with this. Unfortunately it has 19 holes which had to be drilled by hand which meant its far from perfect. It will be kept in position by friction as I want it to be removable so I can get access to the bolt which keeps the ratemaster in place. Its not accurate but will do for now.
The ratemaster as a very small rim at the opening which has a tendency to get damaged which is what happened to mine. I was thinking of buying a clear plastic pipe which would fit inside the RM, however Mamas showed the easiest way which was to cut some clear plastic sheet and just fold it inside which is what I did. Again its loose and only kept in place by the star shaped thing pushed inside. The RM is then kept in place with a screw bolt, it can turn but I wouldn't do it too much. I haven't taken many photos of these stages.
That just leaves the worst thing to do and that's the Aqua Sprites but I'll leave that for another day.

Ps I've come across some photos I'd forgot I'd taken. In the last photo you can just see the new rim at the end of the ratemaster.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Well here we are at the final stage. The aqua sprites were something I left to the end as to me anyway they were fiddly.
The kit comes with them moulded in clear plastic so all that needed done was to trim the excess off and paint them.
I gave them a light sanding being careful not to damage the dome part then masked them. After spraying some plastic primer I decided to spray the final colour as it would save the hassle of re-masking them later on. After the trouble I had previously I was relieved it went well. After that it was just a matter of creating the arched roof support from some vinyl tape.
I temporary fitted them on the hull just using some double sided tape as they will need to be removed if I ever paint the model which at the moment is unlikely.
And that's that, finally finished. I've got used to it being in primer grey as it makes it look as if its come out of factory and not reached the paint shop yet.
Stingray has a great shape and it looks fab on the shelf, perhaps one day I might get round to painting it!
What's next well unfortunately its back to decorating again for a while, after that's done it will either be an SPV (I have the kit) or start to scratch build my TB4.
Many thanks to everyone who looked at the build, I hope it wasn't too boring as it was a repeat of my other build.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Here are some 'finished' photos of Stingray. Thanks Mamas for a great kit which are always fun to build.
 

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A joy to behold.....

Glad you made it M - beautiful finish, judging by the pictures. Understand your reticence reference the painting - just enjoy the fact you've got her at last. Your projects are NEVER boring!

Kindest regards

Patrick
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
I was wondering if any one can help me with the paint colours on this model. I'd be love to know what colours people have used preferably Halfords spray cans.
The two blue colours are causing me a headache, I used a colour that was recommended for the main hull ( Rover Henley Blue) but its turned out too dark even though the cap colour looks about right. I also tried other blues but again they are too dark.
I did some experiments on a separate surface using white primer but that made no difference. I've a few spray cans that are no good and at £7 a go I'm not spending anymore 'till I know its the correct one. I'd be most grateful for any advice.
Many thanks
Malcolm
 

umotogp

Alphans
28569502970_21b7479b23_z.jpg

I did mine some 20 years ago, from memory the light blue was ford Olympic blue, the silver was strato silver the yellow was I think was Ford Daytona yellow and I can't quite remember the dark blue, but it may of been a midnight blue British Leyland?? hope that helps
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Many thanks umotogp for the info, I've bought some of those colours and they look good.
Unfortunately I've chosen the worst time of year to spray final colours as its too cold and the paint won't keep its gloss finish. I can't heat the garage so I'll have to wait until the weather changes.
thanks again.
 

umotogp

Alphans
No problem Badsimmonds, I have the same issues when wanting to get on with a little model making and its to damp and cold this time of year, the hands dont work to well either :-(, mind you I would suggest that a semi matt or satin is better finish anyway, are you going to panel line and weather it?
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Hi there

For some reason I'm keen at the moment to keep the finish gloss though more than likely I will matt it down when complete. I usually use matt laquer which gives a finish between matt and satin, well at least it did on some other models, I will do some experiments on a separate surface before I touch the model.
I will panel line and add some weathering.

I have another question about colours this time on the large fins on the cabin. The inside surfaces are the lighter blue but I can't decide whether the outer fin surfaces are the light blue or the darker blue as on the cabin.
I've looked at other builds and episodes but it changes between tv models and of course lightning and I'm thoroughly confused.

malcolm
 
Watching with interest....

Hi Malcolm, can offer you no advice whatsoever on this topic, other than to wish you every success, and keep my fingers crossed that you get the finish and the shades you so keenly desire. As I said to somebody else recently, I have it relatively easy - Eagles are white, except for the trims and shading. You've got four main colours with which to do battle!

Keep us posted now......

Kindest regards

Patrick
 

umotogp

Alphans
Hi there

For some reason I'm keen at the moment to keep the finish gloss though more than likely I will matt it down when complete. I usually use matt laquer which gives a finish between matt and satin, well at least it did on some other models, I will do some experiments on a separate surface before I touch the model.
I will panel line and add some weathering.

I have another question about colours this time on the large fins on the cabin. The inside surfaces are the lighter blue but I can't decide whether the outer fin surfaces are the light blue or the darker blue as on the cabin.
I've looked at other builds and episodes but it changes between tv models and of course lightning and I'm thoroughly confused.

malcolm

Well for me its defo the light blue, the image attached is of the well known/seen TV21 cover of Stingray exiting the pen, and is clearly light blue, but having looked at plenty of actual studio shots there does seam to be some that appear darker and almost the same as the cabin, but truth be known is that colour continuity were not a consideration on the set as are the graphic positioning and size, I have also seen the cabin appears lighter too, which doesn't look as good to me IMO, nearly all the good models Ive seen have the light blue on the fins.

10eee625cf140a463f9d3083557e4233.jpg
 

Cool Caveman

Alphans
FWIW
as a lifetime Stingray anorak, there's no doubt it's the lighter blue.
Studio lighting is the variable that gives the impression of it being different in some shots.

If there's still any doubt in your mind, google master models Stingray or Reg Hill Stingray model
 

Cool Caveman

Alphans
For example
 
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