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Recommended tools and equipment

karr1981

Assistant Commander
Staff member
this Post will list the currently recommended tools and equipment for paper model building.

Please post your suggestions and feedback on products you use, and we will update this post.

Glue:

[ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002W2EJV0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=eagletrans-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B002W2EJV0"]Evo-stick Wood Glue[/ame] - Recommended by RedTrev

Paper / Card:

Cutting:
 

RedTrev

Alphans
For glue, I always use [ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002W2EJV0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=eagletrans-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B002W2EJV0"]Evo-Stik Wood Glue[/ame]. It dries quick, clear and is very strong. I prefer the smaller 75ml size.

If you pierce the nozzle, you can cap it with a pin (I use the bobble-headed dress-makers one) and this keeps the glue adequately protected. This has the added benefit of allowing you, in most cases, to apply the glue directly from the bottle without having to use additional applicators. Of course, you will still need the trusty cocktail stick for certain hard to reach places ;)

Edit: Seems the new bottles have a twist-lock cap. This will likely be too imprecise for direct working :(
 
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peter taft

Alphans
The Glue sticks i use for all my paper models is the POWER PRITT the grey coloured stick. I tried others {many others} and this one really is powerful - also it doesn't wrinkle the card stock like most of the others. Card stock weight really depends on the size {scale} of the model you are building. For smaller parts you may wish to use ordinary paper stock thickness (80gsm} Larger parts can be directly printed onto heavier stock {160gsm} If you require substantial thickness for say "Bulkheads", you can laminate several layers of card, or use one thicker card {this would be harder to cut though}. Hope this helps anyone getting into this most wonderful hobby. :thumbup:
PS I also use PVA glue for areas which require alignment over a longer period of time, this glue allows for this. Super glue works fine for small parts, BUT i wouldn't recommend it for large areas - it isn't very flexible when dry.
 
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karr1981

Assistant Commander
Staff member
Great info cheers,

Chris

The Glue sticks i use for all my paper models is the POWER PRITT the grey coloured stick. I tried others {many others} and this one really is powerful - also it doesn't wrinkle the card stock like most of the others. Card stock weight really depends on the size {scale} of the model you are building. For smaller parts you may wish to use ordinary paper stock thickness (80gsm} Larger parts can be directly printed onto heavier stock {160gsm} If you require substantial thickness for say "Bulkheads", you can laminate several layers of card, or use one thicker card {this would be harder to cut though}. Hope this helps anyone getting into this most wonderful hobby. :thumbup:
PS I also use PVA glue for areas which require alignment over a longer period of time, this glue allows for this. Super glue works fine for small parts, BUT i wouldn't recommend it for large areas - it isn't very flexible when dry.
 

peter taft

Alphans
Home made LIGHT WEIGHT FILLER !

At some point you may wish to fill gaps or just make an area SUPER SMOOTH ! where hard areas like an oval or rounded object may look too angled. There are some products you could buy to do this, but why shell out cash when you probably have all that you need to make your own - works out VERY CHEAP :brows:

Here's what you need to do:

1} Collect all the paper triangles {the bits you cut off to make joining strips} If you haven't got enough, shred some paper very fine and cut into smallish pieces.
2} Get a container and put WARM water into it and put the paper bits into that. Let it stand to soak.
3} When the paper has pulped up, add some PVA {White glue} to the mix - amount depends on how much mix you require. Mix this until the pulp and the pva is smooth.
4} Apply to area you are working on with a small knife or smooth spatula.
5} When completely dry you can sand the area and paint it.

If you want to - you can add POWDER PAINT to the mix, this way, when you sand it down, you don't lose the background colour, and it makes for a GREAT undercoat :thumbup:

I have attached a picture of my paper Seaview model {designed by Gary PIlsworth} The front of this model has a lot of angled cuts, it's ok if you go with just that, but i went the extra mile to make this smooth using the mix above.
 

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