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THunderbird One Remote Camera

badsimmonds

Alphans
After the MK1 1999 Tank I decided to try my hand again at a scratch build.
I finally chose the remote camera as it was small and seems relatively simple!.
Next I had to think - studio scale or bigger, certainly bigger would be easier but I had a load of girder bridge parts namely the bits round TB2 pod doors and as I didn't relish the idea of up scaling those parts so studio scale it was going to be.
I worked out the original model was around five inches long approx. The original always appeared to be very small and light in the two episodes it appears as it does wobble a bit.
Once again I had to use what I had lying around as I never keep a store of handy useful parts and these days its a little harder and takes longer to receive anything through the mail, anyway I prefer to see what I'm buying before I buy.
As the main body is wider at the front I cut out a couple of plastic tubes of different diameters and poured some fibreglass resin inside the bigger tube and just placed the smaller one in the centre. Once dry they are firmly stuck together. Its then a matter of using lots of P38 filler smothered all over, this was fresh filler so it was more gloopy than usual hence the way it looks in the photo. After a few more sanding's and fillings its beginning to take shape.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
For the clear nose section I bought some acrylic champagne flutes which were about 2mm thick and had the right sort of curve. I cut them to approx size using a mini drill cutter and then fine tuned it with sandpaper until its base was the same diameter as the camera body. I also enlarged the hole at the narrow end where the camera lens will face. I had to be extra careful not to scratch the plastic otherwise I'd have to use another flute.
 

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telster

Alphans
ooOOooh - this might be a very nice find for the acrylic champagne flutes because they can make good rocket nose cones when cut down the stem a bit & sanded back to the ogive shape we need for TB3.

Soooo - what's the diameter at the widest point & where'd you get 'em ?

T
 

KevinD

Alphans
This is a fascinating build. I have thought about doing a life size one of these many times, but when looking at the TB1 hatch that it comes out of and comparing it to the shot of Scott hanging out of that hatch in The Uninvited, I concluded it was a big bugger and couldn't face it! Fascinating to watch this.
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Hi
Telster - I got the flutes from PartyPlastics.co.uk and they were quick on delivery, I bought four in case I made a mess which could still happen. The outside diameter at the top is 55mm.
Kevin - Thinking back I too did very briefly many years ago think of a full size version but like a lot of my plans nothing came of it, probably just as well as it would have taken up too much space in a house that is already full of bits and pieces.
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Hi
Telster - I got the flutes from PartyPlastics.co.uk and they were quick on delivery, I bought four in case I made a mess which could still happen. The outside diameter at the top is 55mm.

Kevin - Thinking back I too did very briefly many years ago think of a full size version but like a lot of my plans nothing came of it, probably just as well as it would have taken up too much space in a house that is already full of bits and pieces.
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
The three side thrusters always remind me of the engines from a plastic kit which were used on the Helijet model though I could be wrong, however as I don't have the kit -if that's where they come from - I have to make them.

The thrusters are only about 50mm long so I decided to make them from some left over brass and aluminium tubes. I filed down one end of a tube to create a slight curve at the thruster end of things. I'll then fit another tube inside but protruding about 5mm - this will be the thruster nozzle!
The other end I just fitted another short bit of tubing again sticking out about 5mm which will be the intake end. Its then a matter of covering it in p38 to create a slight curve along the tube instead of having it straight and level if that makes sense.
As always it means lots of sanding and filling. As you can see in the last photo I'm almost there but it gives and idea of what they will look like.

Does anyone know what lettering is on this model as there seems to be some between the side thrusters and I cannot make them out, any help would be most appreciated thanks.
 

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telster

Alphans
Awww - so close. I was hoping for 50 mm as that would be good for a 1/144 scale build which would go nicely alongside some of the other machines I have.

SO anyway - thanks for the help & good luck with the build - I'll be watching your posts with interest
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Telster - There are many other sizes of plastic drinks glasses out there though some are a bit thin and perhaps not much use for using as modelling materials.
Places like 'The Range' sell plastic glasses and I've seem them in other places. Perhaps you can find one that would be ideal even if it means taking a few millimetres off the top.
Good luck with your build.
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
Telster - There are many other sizes of plastic drinks glasses out there though some are a bit thin and perhaps not much use for using as modelling materials.
Places like 'The Range' sell plastic glasses and I've seem them in other places. Perhaps you can find one that would be ideal even if it means taking a few millimetres off the top.
Good luck with your build.
 

badsimmonds

Alphans
The legs were made out of 4mm thick acrylic as I had plenty and its easy to work with. Some people don't like acrylic but if your careful it can be a very useful material.
The legs on the camera are quite small and thin so I roughly cut out the shape using a mini drill cutter then lots of filing. To create the small cut-outs I used the mini drill sander then finished them off with a square file. It took a while as they were small and I was worried about filing too much and the leg would break. Fortunately it didn't so I managed to make three legs without too much trouble.
As the profile of the legs is actually like an 'i' beam I glued on some very thin (0.25mm thick) plastic strips top and bottom. The bottom end was a straight cut off while the top end was cut to match the profile of the body.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
The landing feet were from the classic Airfix/Dapol girder bridge used extensively on the Anderson series and more notably round the pod door on TB2.
I glued a small length of plastic tube at the ends of the legs then drilled a hole in the centre of the feet so I could push a cut-down panel pin through. I wanted the feet to be loose so they could find their own level so I only glued the panel pin into the tube and kept wiggling the feet until the glue dried in case some of the glue ended up where it shouldn't.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Thanks Kevin, its fun to build even if it is a strange looking thing.
The actual camera lens thingy inside the clear nose isn't seen that clearly in the episode but I stuck a few bits and pieces together in the rough configuration. It was made from plastic hole plug covers - the sort you use to hide unused predrilled holes in kitchen units. Like everything else its not perfect but it will do for me.
At this stage I decided the main body wasn't long enough so I added a couple of bits of acrylic on the end with a hole in the centre for the later thruster.
Its just a matter of sanding and filling until it blends in with the rest of the body.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
To connect the side thrusters to the body I cut slots in the engines and main body and used some 2mm acrylic to attach them. To make nice neat slots I used the tried and tested method of parcel tape and filler to make a slot exactly the same size as the corresponding acrylic joiner if that makes sense.
As usual it involves filling and sanding and a few squirts of primer to check if its ok.
I won't glue anything in place yet as I still have to create more holes for the legs to slot into.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Thanks Kevin, its taking a while to complete this model as I'm only spending minutes each day on it but I feel its almost there.
After making the slots for the side thrusters I had to make more holes for the three legs.
They were created the exact same way as the previous slots, I'm sure I spend for ever sanding and filling my builds.
Once the slots were completed its just a matter of pushing in the legs, they might not need any glue but I'll see whats what at the final assembly. I'll keep them separate for the time being.
You can also see the large vertical thruster hole underneath the body in the photo which again was created the same way. I will use this to support the model when finished.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
With all the construction work completed I think its time for paint.
For those who have watched my other builds will know I hate this stage as so many things can go wrong which they do sometimes.
There is not a lot of good photos of the original model but it looks like the same colour as TB3 which is good as I have this paint in the garage. I'll be using Halfords Ford Carnival Red which is the same colour I used on my Superon truck, Jason Smith Truck and Elevator Car.
As usual it has had a few coats of Halfords primer with lots of sanding in-between the coats and finally wiped over a tack rag.
Although the side thrusters are a different colour I decided just to spray the whole thing the same colour.
After a day or two I masked off the three thrusters and hand painted them using Tamiya Flat Black.
 

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badsimmonds

Alphans
Thanks Kevin.
After painting the thrusters matt black I hand painted the front and rear silver areas with some odd paint I had lying around.
The red tips at the front of the thrusters were just cut down notice board pins which were already red in colour.
The legs were sprayed Halfords Rover Stone Grey with the girder bridge feet hand painted silver.
The camera mechanisms were also sprayed with the Stone Grey with some hand painted silver highlites.
I think that about does the painting for this model apart from the weathering etc.
 

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