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Old 02-11-2005, 07:23 PM   #21
Mark42
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Chassis on mine is 4 inch across - done in perspex.
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Old 03-11-2005, 05:50 PM   #22
Century21Slough
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When shortening track, is it best to shorten from the single or the double ended backing plate? As each side comes in two pieces. How do you rejoin? With glue or rivets? Also anyone know what kit the large plate in the middle of the cab under the windows, and the two small vents near the top of the offside (Number 3 side) are from??
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:20 PM   #23
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I glued mine with 2-part epoxy - on one track piece.
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:54 PM   #24
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Thanks for that it works fine, almost invisible joins. But still don't know what the vent detail is???
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Old 25-12-2005, 09:02 PM   #25
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Hello from Mike / captainplaid,

I have added these jpgs here is your answer good Sir, the track from this kit was used for the vent plus i know of these bits that are used besides the Gemini kit bits. Here is a link to my Ealbum where the jpgs are stored if you know if other kit bits used like the detail under the cab brow let me know i know the gemini bits but not the windshield washers and .... or the little square vents on the body upper to right side would be grand.
All the best

Mike out.
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Old 06-03-2006, 10:51 PM   #26
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Haven't visited here for a while and thought I'd add my 2 pennies worth, if it's of any help.

My mobile is just over 20 & 1/4". When i tried to remove the clips from the Tiger Joe axles they disintegrated! However, the clips can still be found and are bog standard push on clips - should get 'em from most DIY shops.

The tracks in the side vents are indeed from the Revell Scissors Bridge, along with the round hatch at the front and the panel on top of the cab that the two Gemini tanks sit on.


If you fancy making a studio scale Elevator Car, from Thunderbirds, the motor from the Tiger Joe sits under the back of the roof!
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Old 09-04-2006, 09:45 PM   #27
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The little square open vents on either side of the chin under the cab windows are from the Airfix James Bond Autogyro. So are the small oval shaped objects. The ovals are not present on all of the Shado Mobiles. 2 kits are required for these parts as there are 2 of each on the Mobile.

The "comb" in the middle of the chin in lower front is from ther Airfix Harrier.

The Harrier part is in the middle of the chin. Verticle and runs halfway up. Similar to the comb on top. The footholds are part#25 in the Bond kit. The pilots seat.

The Bond ovals are part #22.

The fonts used for SHADO are "Eurostyle Bold Extended".

The correct body color is "Ford Arctic Blue" .

I was fortunate to receive some high dpi photos and information on the Shado Mobile from Martin Bower personaly. These arent the photos that are floating around already or on his websight. He took these personaly for me. I can give what info I have but sadly not the photos. He asked that I don't post them for copyright reasons. Its to bad because they are outstanding and show all the parts used in extreme detail. He told me the kits that were used but not the individual parts. He also told me the SHADO fonts are Eurostyle Bold Extended and the color used on the originals is Ford Arctic Blue. Iv'e ID'd most of the parts except for the wheel object on the cab roof that holds the antennea and the same part is used inbetween the rear axle where all the "screeblies" are. Its NOT a wheel from the Lifelike Long Tom. I have this kit and the wheel looks wrong and to small. The wheels on the Tamiya sdkfz 232 German armored car look to be a dead ringer except I think they may be to small. The boxes/vents on the upper sides of the hull I havent figured out yet either. I have some great photos of the of the Mobile flipped upside down between the front axle where most of us have probably never seen. I'm trying to ID those parts with kits that I have. The rear doors are not flush with the hull. They stick out maybe 1 or 2 MM based on the photo's. There are some round pieces between the rear wheels and lower hull. They are just above the exposed rear axle shafts. They are 1 of 3 things: Pressure balls from the Gemini kit, (this was emailed to me from someone else.), the Gemini tanks that are used also on the cab roof ( my deduction) or landing wheels like in Martins photos that I have yet to ID. Could be from the Airfix Bond kit, Huskie helicopter or some other aircraft. I will post more here as I learn more.

In Martins photo's there is a piece on the rear in between the axle upper right hand side. He used the grille/radiator part#13 from the Airfix Scammel Transporter. In screen shots it looks to me on the originals it was part #25 from the Bond kit. Same part that was used for the "footholds" under the side cab windows. To the left of this he used the driveshaft part# 21. On the originals it looks bigger. Maybe from the Honest John. He also used the base for the trailer hitch swivel part #49 on the other side lower. This looks to be an aircraft landing wheel in screen shots.

To the left of the Scammel drive shaft deep inside he used part#39 from th Revell Armored Vehicle and Scissors bridge. Its one of the headlights. Just to the left and above that he used the Revell Gemini part# 23. Looks like the head to a meat tenderizing hammer.

Below each of the Honest John fenders he used the same part he used for the tailight looking part on the rear lower left. Haven't ID'd that part yet but you would need 3 of them.

The long girder side supports for the bridge decking in the Revell Scissors Bridge kit (There are 8 in the kit) are used on the lower hull sides. Large end first to the front and pointed end to the rear. They go just above the axles. 1 on each side. Large end flush with the front of the Mobile lower hull.

Mr.Bower mentioned that someone made moulds off one of his Jelutong wood Mobiles that someone borrowed. The SPV he used for the SFX shots for the Captain Scarlet comics in 1993 and sold ended up having bootleg moulds made from it also.

As soon as my Honest John arrives in the mail I'll dissect it and post what I find in that kit. Its a rare kit and took me a while to find. Already built but complete. Nice job too by a former Monogram employee. To bad I have to rip it apart!!! Some things just need doing!!

The long raised bar/handhold/brushguard that goes across the cab roof has small mounts. They are not round. They are hex shaped. Look like small hex nuts with the bars mounted through the center holes.

The cab is built out of 1/4 inch thick clear Perspex. The corners are simply sanded round so you dont have to cut and make windows. Just mask off the window areas and paint.
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Old 12-04-2006, 01:05 PM   #28
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Martin Bower might make the cabs from 1/4 inch perspex with the corners sanded off but the originals were thinner one-piece clear plastic mouldings.
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Old 12-04-2006, 05:23 PM   #29
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Default shado parts

Here's part of a letter he wrote me. You decide: I made my canopies the same as on the original models. They were constructed out of 1/4 inch clear Perspex (Plexiglass) and simply had the corners rounded. the curve does not encroach into the clear "glass" area. You do not need to have any vac-forming or moulds made. The windows are not set in (as you appear to have done it) Rather you just mask up the clear windows, having put tape round the windows to highlight them, before spraying the model. That way the windows "fit" perfectly. Also if you look at the photo number 3 you can see how a fillet of polyester filler is put around the finished canopy. Put release against around the base of the finished canopy, then when the filler is dry . remove the canopy and sand the fillet to shape. The canopy will now sit firmly in place in the rim you've created with the filler!

Hope this helps!

MARTIN
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:05 PM   #30
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If you look at photo's of the original models drivers cabin and compare them to replicas that are made from flat sheets of perspex you should be able to notice the difference. The originals were not very square or flat, the front has very, very round curves and even the 'flat' side windows have a bend in them and are not therefore flat. This happens because the original shape was carved from wood and the cabin shells were then vac-formed in clear plastic. Then as Martin says the window areas were masked off and the rest painted.
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Old 13-04-2006, 04:35 PM   #31
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Just won the Adams/Lifelike "Tillie the Toiler" 120mm AA gun model kit. As soon as it arrives I'll inspect the parts and see if anything matches up to the Shado Mobile.

Ok, got the Honest John and it revealed alot of parts. The large piece under the Autogyro landing legs in the rear is part # 23 the cab floor. Parts #43R and 44L are on either side. The rear fenders. The tailight looking piece on the left rear bottom is part #58 the transmision cover. On the rear next to the left of the right hand Honest John fender is one of the drive shafts. Either part # 70 the front drive shaft or the rear drive shaft. No number was given for the rear drive shaft but its easy enough to figure out. If you are standing in front of a Mobile looking at the Scammel part on the left hand side there is a plate with 2 triangle looking pieces sticking out of the top to the right of it. Its part # 59R or #60L. There are 2 in the kit. Part #63 goes under the chin. Its part of the Mobiles front suspension. And last but not least. The part I've gotten the most emails about: On either side of the nose bridge ( from Gemini kit ). On top. There are 2 pieces. They have small lightening holes in them. Part of the windshield wiper assemby. They are...... part # 65 You cut this piece in two and viola!!!

The windshield wiper arms are part #'s 99, 100, 101, or 102 from the Scammel kit. Any 2 will work.

In the Honest John kit parts # 9R and 11L are the rear door handles on the Mobile. Either part can be used.

I have the rear end assembled and primed. If anybody wants a picture you can email me direct at tigertank05@aol.com. I tried to post the pic. here but I cant figure out how to do it.
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Old 20-04-2006, 07:11 AM   #32
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Default Re: shado parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by shado driver
I have the rear end assembled and primed. If anybody wants a picture you can email me direct at tigertank05@aol.com. I tried to post the pic. here but I cant figure out how to do it.
Would love to see it...and if you send it over to me on e-mail I'll get it up on here immediately...

Cheers

Chris
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Old 21-04-2006, 12:41 AM   #33
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I got the Life Like 120mm "Tillie the Toiler" AA gun today. Parts # 9 are the triangle pieces the windshield wiper arms attach to. Parts #58L and 61R "Jack leveling plates" connect to those under the brow.

I sent the pictures yesterday.
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Old 22-04-2006, 06:53 AM   #34
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Sorry - was away at work yesterday until late.

Here are the two pictures, slightly cropped to comply with size restrictions on this forum.

Chris


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Old 22-04-2006, 12:55 PM   #35
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Hello,

just joined this group because of this particular thread and thought I would contribute my views to the melting pot.

May I ask whether you are basing your rear detail on pics supplied by Mr Bower of his replica? Only it seems to be overdetailed in comparison to the pics I have which I thought were of the multiview shots taken at the time.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t=scan0002.jpg

If you are then you are making a replica of his version and not of the original version?!

If the link works then you can see that there appears to be no detail below the large wheel.

Also I cannot see how Mr Bower can have made his clear cabin by simply sanding the edges and the sanded area being hidden by paint as the glass is clearly curved at the outer area in the pictures I am looking at. David Sisson on his website mentions the curvature of the glass as well and he had his cabin molded.

Also going by my picture the placement of some of your parts appears to be out slightly - that is if the photo is the real thing.


Hopefully helpfully,
Barry
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Old 22-04-2006, 07:23 PM   #36
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The rear I made is a compromise between Martins Mobile and screen shots I took from the episode "A Computer Affair". I added a few extras on the bottom to fill in missing detail. The second smaller wheel on the bottom is not present on all the Mobiles. After scouring the web, books and screen shots it seems this area is still in question. Martin said he also added a few extra bits. From what I understand the original Mobiles were all scrapped. If anybody has more information I would love to see it.

The larger wheel I used from the 1/35 scale Tamiya 8 wheeled German Panzerspahwagen. It was the closest I could find after going through literaly dozens of kits. Iv'e been searching the military kits and a friend has been buying up truck kits to find this piece. Dodge and GMC military cargo truck wheels look like they could be used too but are a little to small. Anybody got any ideas?? Maybe its not a vehicle wheel and its from some other kit.


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Old 22-04-2006, 10:35 PM   #37
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You've left the two big Honest John bits (43 & 44) as they came in the kit and have backfilled them making the whole unit much deeper(about 19mm). But you can clearly see in the top picture that the parts on the original have been trimmed, at the top, to the level where the edging strip extends out of each side making them about 9mm deep.
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Old 22-04-2006, 11:36 PM   #38
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I took Martins route and filled the sides. I didnt like it all flimsy and open. There wouldnt be much surface area to apply glue to. Its much sturdier now. Plus if the Mobile was a real vehicle I doubt there would be a large, empty gap behind all that machinery. Hey, my Mobile isn't going to be a spot on dead ringer for the originals but close enough for me. The average Joe won't know the difference. Could be worse though. Look at the back of the LiteFX-Models mobile. Its way off!! In the pics above. That circled wheel is from the Lifelike "Tillie the Toiler" 120mm gun kit. Its the bigger one above it I can't figure out.

Just seen the only Honest John kit on Ebay sell for $92.00 !! And it was an INCOMPLETE kit!! Looks like everybody building a Mobile knows about it now. Double edged sword. Spill the beans on kits and parts trying to do people a favor and the prices go up. Glad I got mine.
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Old 23-04-2006, 09:59 AM   #39
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The original kits by UPC were reissued under the Hobby Life Like brand and should be much cheaper.
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Old 23-04-2006, 11:45 AM   #40
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I'm not quite sure why you have spent all that money on kits to get the accurate parts - then invent details or base your copy on someone elses version. As you can see in the standard profile picture posted above the back of the mobiles consisted of 2 flat rectangular panels. The biggest panel at the top is covered in kit parts and the lower panel is blank. As you have spotted there is the wheel hub from the Tillie the Toiler kit stuck in the lower centre of the upper panel in the episode 'The Computer Affair'. This part has simply fallen off in the profile shot - thats all. If you're serious about building a replica then build what you see in the pictures of the original and don't copy Martins (or anyone elses) version at all.
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